# Conditions Around Subic & Clark



## Maxx62 (Dec 31, 2013)

The other day I was talking with my brother-in-law (another Kano married to my wife's sister) and during our conversation the topics of Subic and Clark Air Base came up.

According to my brother-in-law, immediately after the bases were closed, the surrounding areas sprang into economic life, and today both areas are boom towns. My brother-in-law is one of those fellows who believes that the US is an evil empire, and he once informed me that Bush stole the 2004 elections by contaminating flu shots with a fear producing chemical, which caused people to vote for the GOP (Seriously). 

I've never spent much time around Subic and Clark, and my understanding of events surrounding these two areas is somewhat different than my brother-in-laws. As I recall, both areas experienced an economic collapse after the closures, and Hong Kong companies which were supposed to relocate, due to the hand over of Hong Kong to China, never really came to the area. (I once read that many of the empty buildings at Subic and Clark had been completely stripped of fixtures and wiring?)

Is my brother-in-law right? Did the areas around Subic and Clark experince phenomenal success immediately following the base closures (he claims that there is a Japanese car plant on Subic), or are both areas merely experiencing small fits and starts of redevelopment?


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## cvgtpc1 (Jul 28, 2012)

Maxx62 said:


> The other day I was talking with my brother-in-law (another Kano married to my wife's sister) and during our conversation the topics of Subic and Clark Air Base came up.
> 
> According to my brother-in-law, immediately after the bases were closed, the surrounding areas sprang into economic life, and today both areas are boom towns. My brother-in-law is one of those fellows who believes that the US is an evil empire, and he once informed me that Bush stole the 2004 elections by contaminating flu shots with a fear producing chemical, which caused people to vote for the GOP (Seriously).
> 
> ...


Not sure how immediate it was but Clark seems to be doing alright.


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## jon1 (Mar 18, 2012)

I wouldn’t say that they are boom towns, but there is an economy that is steadily increasing. I live in the Subic Freeport (the former US Navy Base). After 20 years, the Subic Freeport has only started to report profits last year. I believe in part due to some of the deals made with the Shipyard and Coal Transfer facility for a Brazilian company. There is now a mall and lots of construction over the last year. Lots of fuel stations, a few hotels and I believe a soon to be much needed condo unit. I have also seen at least a dozen businesses fold up for various reasons. There is lots of ebb and flow through the Freeport and I would say that it is on the uptake for now. There is no Japanese car plant in Subic. There are several auction houses that move vehicles (cars and construction vehicles) from Japan and Korea monthly. Aside from the Shipyard and Coal Transfer business, the Subic Freeport is primarily tourist oriented in business (hotels, resorts, Marine park, Tiger Safari, Treetop adventure, etc.). The airport is under utilized, and has one operator that is providing business class chartered flights with another providing a flight school.

Outside of the Subic Freeport is Olongapo. There is also a new mall there and lots of businesses. I hardly ever see shops closing over there and the city proper is really crowded. All of the old USN haunts on Magsaysay Boulevard are mostly gone (still a few up in the Barrio Barretto area) and have been replaced with RestoBars and stores.

From what I have seen and heard about Clark, it was looted after the US left. Subic was not looted thanks to the Olongapo Mayor (Gordon) who took measures to prevent that. However, Clark is more business park oriented. They have several plants up there (Yokohama tires, Texas Instruments, etc.) and a new “green” city is being developed (not holding my breathe on that one). They are also building a first rate hospital right by the Expressway. Clark does have an SM mall too and a couple of resorts. The airport in Clark is coming along and has plenty of domestic and international flights (Korea, Singapore, Hong Kong, Bangkok), which is a huge plus. There is also a large logistical industrial park being built there by a Kuwaiti company.

Outside of the Clark Freeport is Angeles City. It still has all of the girlie bars and that industry is still in force. I have seen a huge influx of Koreans there and they have basically taken over a large portion of the area along Friendship gate. Like Olongapo, Angeles City is congested and crowded. 

A new expressway (SCTEX) was built a few years ago connecting the two Freeports. The SCTEX is connected to the NLEX, which provides a relatively quick way to/from Manila (about 2 hours one way).

I think that both economies took a huge hit after the US departure, but have recovered significantly since then.


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## Nickleback99 (Aug 6, 2011)

First, Sorry about your brother in law. Wow. As for Subic or Clark compared to the "old days"....I was living at Subic area late 89-92, and there for Pinatubo eruption in '91 which spelled end game for Clark AFB, yet Subic dug out and survived. It was crazy time w/ one in million chance of typhoon and eruption at same time, which became reality, causing Both bases to get dumped on...we have about 8-10" of Wet ash, much like the wet beach sand and heavy as concrete. Was literally raining mud dropsat the start w/ rain ash mixed and then raining rocks and pitch black in middle of the day...it was surreal. Anyway, my team hosted bunch of operators from Clark when all thought Subic was "safe" during evac of Clark....the typhoon changed the safe part. Anyway, most never went back to Clark and the limited Security element left there was not going to shoot anyone over houses and such....talk about International incident! The Fils did go in and strip the Clark houses, esp plumbing and copper wire, and anything else to sell on the market. Not much to be done about that. Subic was never evacuated, although non essential personnel were sent home...my then Fil wife (now Ex) evac'd on the USS Lincoln on maiden voyage, down to Cebu and flown out days later. U.S. hired every Fil avail it seemed and cleaned up the base/ash with anything they could dig with, even a piece of wood board. within 5 mos, the base was pretty much recovered as well as Olongapo, ball fields active, etc. It was a very interesting time. Jon nailed it about the Gordon Family (Think "Corleone Family" in the Godfather and you'll be real close!). They are not just powerful....They are Real powerful and I guess part of the "100 Families" that pretty much run/own the Philippines (?). They had own militia types and support of others w/ their own little militias, all of whom we worked with a good bit. If anyone had invaded the base houses, etc, heads would have rolled...Literally. Their power and ability to wield that power are why NPA Never did a Sparrow Team hit in Subic/Olongapo area...NPA only did those up in Angeles/Clark back then. It was a gentlemen's agreement of sorts...They got free passage and R&R in area without being bothered in exchange for not doing any hits, etc there....If they had? ...well, there would have been countless NPA dead and families dead, etc. Would have been "scorched earth". I'd assume they are still as powerful. As for Subic, those were the true Glory days for the facility there and it was beautiful. Not as much now. Went there in 2010 and it was much more "run down" or beaten down looking than when we pumped all that $ in there and US created a real middle class then in the P.I. Big thing is the landscaping, but then again in 1990, Every yard and bldg had a yard boy and tons of attention. I was little saddened at condition of some buildings I remembered, and two pools were simply dirt fields by then...just Gone. Not sure of golf course now, but it Looked llike Jungle reclaimed it in 2010 when I toured around. Like said, other than the New stuff down on water front where O Club used be, CPO club, the other stuff looked less nice. Obviously Clark fully recovered and is doing well economically. It was encouraging to see all the container ships in Subic Bay when we pulled in; so, I hope That at least is thriving and giving good jobs and $ into area..... Jon would know about that. Maybe we were there on bad timing, but when we stayed in Barrio B. a few days, the beach was filthy with litter and couple of washed up dead dogs. Like said, maybe it was just after a storm as was in September time. I hope in season, hotel owners actuallly pay to clean it up? 

That all said, I can hardly wait to go back....visit this coming Dec for Christmas and then Move to PI for good in 2016. Question then will be Where in P.I. Give me a beach and a laid back flip flop lifestyle somewhere and I'll be happy.


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## DonAndAbby (Jan 7, 2013)

Maxx62 said:


> My brother-in-law is one of those fellows who believes that the US is an evil empire, and he once informed me that Bush stole the 2004 elections by contaminating flu shots with a fear producing chemical, which caused people to vote for the GOP (Seriously).


That is hilarious! I have never heard that one.

Regarding Subic, Jon stated it well and I will add a few things that peeve me. 

I am disappointed with the Freeport Zone in that there are so many areas that still look desolate, like a bomb went off. Old buildings and piles of concrete lie around forever instead of being disposed of properly. The Freeport could attract businesses much faster if they would clean all that up. An empty dirt lot is a lot more attractive than a bunch of debris that attracts more trash and never gets cleaned up. Unfortunately it seems to be common for Filipinos to not care about things like this.

The other thing I see is businesses set up without a good business plan, so then they go under and the property is abandoned. A good example of that is the D.E.A.L.S. store here, where expats thought they could sell imported used returns for about the same price I would pay in the U.S. :der:

They are building a lot of new hotels and rooms down near the beach, but the beach is not very nice (no swimming allowed). I don't think the area is that attractive for vacationers, especially foreigners, and that area is going to end up with a glut of hotel rooms which will result in more businesses going under.

Lastly, I would love to see more invested in improving the bay cleanliness and the above mentioned beach area. That is what will attract more visitors.

IMHO. I hope I am wrong on some of that.


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## Maxx62 (Dec 31, 2013)

DonAndAbby said:


> That is hilarious! I have never heard that one.
> 
> Regarding Subic, Jon stated it well and I will add a few things that peeve me.
> 
> ...


Yeah, he's a real piece of work alright, and in the future I'll have to remember not to argue with him anymore. (You can't argue with someone like that.) He was actually trying to claim that the prescence of the US military in Subic and Clark was somehow harmful to the economy of the Philippines, and once the US left these areas, they immediately sprang into life. However, that just didn't seem to jive with anything I've ever read. Things seem to be kinda hit and miss as I suspected. Thanks for the info.


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## Maxx62 (Dec 31, 2013)

Just a quick follow up question: Would you say that overall crime in Olongapo and Angeles City is down from what it was in 1991? Thanks for the info, one of these days I'll have to go back up there and look around.


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## GWrobes (May 7, 2014)

I worked in Subic in 1998. Back then, there were very few businesses apart from manufacturing companies. Things to me looked cleaner back then. It looked like it was properly maintained. Even the golf course was still open then. 

Cut to 2014 on my last visit, albeit there are big positive changes - a mall, more business, it also looked to me a bit run-down. I was sad to see empty lots with trash, weeds knee high, rubble, etc. With the increase of establishments, it also started to resemble Manila a bit (gasp!) minus the terrible traffic thank goodness.

Having said that, Subic is still first choice for location for our retirement. It being closest to where I grew up in the PH, and the closest I think, to American living as can be had in the PH.


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## DonAndAbby (Jan 7, 2013)

GWrobes said:


> I worked in Subic in 1998. Back then, there were very few businesses apart from manufacturing companies. Things to me looked cleaner back then. It looked like it was properly maintained. Even the golf course was still open then.
> 
> Cut to 2014 on my last visit, albeit there are big positive changes - a mall, more business, it also looked to me a bit run-down. I was sad to see empty lots with trash, weeds knee high, rubble, etc. With the increase of establishments, it also started to resemble Manila a bit (gasp!) minus the terrible traffic thank goodness.
> 
> Having said that, Subic is still first choice for location for our retirement. It being closest to where I grew up in the PH, and the closest I think, to American living as can be had in the PH.


We have Filipino friends who said the same thing. They grew up in the area and then worked in Oman for 12 years, returning in early 2013. They said Olongapo City was much cleaner and better maintained back then, compared to now, and gave credit to the mayor, whats his name.

Yes, IMHO despite the challenges, the Freeport is a very good place to live if you want an organized American lifestyle. Obey the traffic laws when you visit!  They have especially been cracking down on seat belts. I got pulled over this week because our 9 year old was in the front seat, not wearing the shoulder belt. He was nice when he saw she had the lap belt on but said she still needed to wear the shoulder belt.


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## DonAndAbby (Jan 7, 2013)

Nickleback99 said:


> Big thing is the landscaping, but then again in 1990, Every yard and bldg had a yard boy and tons of attention. I was little saddened at condition of some buildings I remembered, and two pools were simply dirt fields by then...just Gone. Not sure of golf course now, but it Looked llike Jungle reclaimed it in 2010 when I toured around.


Yes, having the landscaping look nice makes a huge difference, and some of that is seasonal. We have a drought this year and many people don't water, so many areas are brown and weedy.

I'm not if you are talking about the same pools, but the two 25 meter pools (Binictican and Kalayaan) are open now and it pretty good shape. It costs p150 a day to swim or you can go monthly for p1500. Downtown, they just opened a brand new 50 meter Olympic pool.

The golf course reopened in early 2013 and 9 holes are in fairly good shape, from what I can see. They are working on the other 9.


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## Nickleback99 (Aug 6, 2011)

That's great news DonandAbby! Thanks. The two pools were one on main base across from old Navy Lodge and the other was out by golf course. I lived in Kakayan before about a block from pool just across that main road. The very nice house end of that cul de sac was built by Lockheed Martin for their Sr guy there. Besides Admirals house, it was nicest one there...very modern. I always "heard" the Gordons took the Admirals house...not sure. Thanks for the info. Subic is definitely on our short list, although my better half misses trikes and jeeps ease of getting around so not sure. Lol.


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## Nickleback99 (Aug 6, 2011)

K ALAYAAN ! doggone auto spell!


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## Barrymay (Nov 19, 2013)

I first looked up at Cubi for a place, but transportation was the only issue, so I live just north of Baloy Beach. It has been good so far. I don't really want a car or the hassles of driving here, although i have a license.
As for the bases after the US left, I hear from the base workers that companies coming in brought all the supervisory positions with them. They only wanted the locals for laborers. So all the skilled workers either moved on or worked for peanuts. Fedex made Cubi their Asian hub, but the corruption and dirty deals drove them away. After that, the runway at Cubi lied mostly dormant. Until last week, now I'm seeing some military aircraft instead of a solitary cessna.


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## Nickleback99 (Aug 6, 2011)

Barrymay, Are you renting or did you buy a place, and what is it like?


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## Barrymay (Nov 19, 2013)

I'm renting at Santa Monica, in the flood zone. The price is very good for a large 2 bedroom apt a good neighborhood. Upstairs is a necessity here in case of flooding. This is only because my planned home at Susana Executive Village isn't built yet. The rent is low enough so I can build at the same time and have room for family and guests. Other places were more than twice the price, out of my range.


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## DonAndAbby (Jan 7, 2013)

Nickleback99 said:


> That's great news DonandAbby! Thanks. The two pools were one on main base across from old Navy Lodge and the other was out by golf course. I lived in Kakayan before about a block from pool just across that main road. The very nice house end of that cul de sac was built by Lockheed Martin for their Sr guy there. Besides Admirals house, it was nicest one there...very modern. I always "heard" the Gordons took the Admirals house...not sure. Thanks for the info. Subic is definitely on our short list, although my better half misses trikes and jeeps ease of getting around so not sure. Lol.


I live where you used to live! I wondered who owned the house at the end of the cul-de-sac. It is very nice. Most of the time it looks like only caretakers there. They are building a brand new monster house across the street from us, overlooking the tennis courts. They just poured the floor for the third level which I assume will be the top level. Probably a 3000-4000 sq ft house.

The big pool in Binictican is not exactly near the golf course. It is at the Brent International school which I assume was a middle or high school for the military families, back in the day. I have not actually seen that pool up close so I don't know if it is recent construction or refurbished. There are a couple of small pools in Binictica too. The pool here in Kalayaan near me is run by Casa Kalayaan International School, which it is adjacent to.


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## jon1 (Mar 18, 2012)

DonAndAbby said:


> Yes, having the landscaping look nice makes a huge difference, and some of that is seasonal. We have a drought this year and many people don't water, so many areas are brown and weedy.
> 
> I'm not if you are talking about the same pools, but the two 25 meter pools (Binictican and Kalayaan) are open now and it pretty good shape. It costs p150 a day to swim or you can go monthly for p1500. Downtown, they just opened a brand new 50 meter Olympic pool.
> 
> The golf course reopened in early 2013 and 9 holes are in fairly good shape, from what I can see. They are working on the other 9.


The golf course is fully functional now. As of a couple of months ago all 18 holes are now open and is reportedly in decent condition. They had to fully sod a hillside (near the front Binictican entrance) as the previous operator stole all of the grass from there on his way out. Amazing!


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## jon1 (Mar 18, 2012)

DonAndAbby said:


> We have Filipino friends who said the same thing. They grew up in the area and then worked in Oman for 12 years, returning in early 2013. They said Olongapo City was much cleaner and better maintained back then, compared to now, and gave credit to the mayor, whats his name.


A filipino friend of mine recounted the same. She said that Olongapo used to be very clean and none of this garbage that is there now. She lamented the US departure as she worked at the NEX and was amazed out how well the work conditions were.


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## GWrobes (May 7, 2014)

Mayor back then was Dick Gordon, and then his wife took over I believe. Olongapo was really clean (very unusual for a busy city in the PH) but the Gordons drilled cleanliness onto its constituents and they took real pride in it (cleanliness slogans found everywhere). The last Ive been in Olongapo was 1999, different Mayor then. A good leader really makes a difference, but it makes me sad that people needed outside encouragement to care about their own surroundings. Do they really need a slogan to remind them not to litter? They cared before, but not now? I dont get it. 

I have high hopes for a great retirement in Subic, but have to lower my expectations as Im told. I just have to constantly remind myself my main reason to go back, that is, to be closer to family.


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## DonAndAbby (Jan 7, 2013)

GWrobes said:


> Mayor back then was Dick Gordon, and then his wife took over I believe. Olongapo was really clean (very unusual for a busy city in the PH) but the Gordons drilled cleanliness onto its constituents and they took real pride in it (cleanliness slogans found everywhere). The last Ive been in Olongapo was 1999, different Mayor then. A good leader really makes a difference, but it makes me sad that people needed outside encouragement to care about their own surroundings. Do they really need a slogan to remind them not to litter? They cared before, but not now? I dont get it.
> 
> I have high hopes for a great retirement in Subic, but have to lower my expectations as Im told. I just have to constantly remind myself my main reason to go back, that is, to be closer to family.


The slogan they have now is "Aim High Olongapo" and it is plastered all over the jeepneys, trikes, etc.

The debris in the Freeport that I mentioned in another post would be fairly easy and cheap to clean up, if someone had the will to do it.

Recently they temporarily stored a huge amount of sand/dirt (I think it is from the river dredging project) next to the old go-cart track in the Freeport. It was a gigantic amount of material, probably 50-100 dump trucks worth. When they moved it out, it was gone in 1-2 days, and they leveled the lot to the previous condition.

That is all that needs to be done with some of these debris filled areas. A couple of bulldozers, skip loaders and a string of trucks, and the land is cleared, and much more attractive to visitors and potential tenants.


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## Nickleback99 (Aug 6, 2011)

DonAndAbby said:


> I live where you used to live! I wondered who owned the house at the end of the cul-de-sac. It is very nice. Most of the time it looks like only caretakers there. They are building a brand new monster house across the street from us, overlooking the tennis courts. They just poured the floor for the third level which I assume will be the top level. Probably a 3000-4000 sq ft house.
> 
> The big pool in Binictican is not exactly near the golf course. It is at the Brent International school which I assume was a middle or high school for the military families, back in the day. I have not actually seen that pool up close so I don't know if it is recent construction or refurbished. There are a couple of small pools in Binictica too. The pool here in Kalayaan near me is run by Casa Kalayaan International School, which it is adjacent to.


Yeah, I used to live in one of the last town house (rt side) units on the right on Bonita....actually I think all the units on the street are on the right. House was solid as a rock and withstood all the earthquakes during Pinatubo and the wet beach sand ash. I had to go up on roof and shovel it off and man! that stuff was Heavy. used to have some before and after pics, but my Ex has those now somewhere...but it was sureal. Great place!


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## jon1 (Mar 18, 2012)

Here is an old map of the Subic Naval base. It's a great reference tool for figuring out what used to be what.


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## Nickleback99 (Aug 6, 2011)

Thanks Jon! I remember that!


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