# Ensenada: As cheap to live in as they say it is?



## RobHoffman

Hi, I'm Rob from Florida. 

I've been doing quite a bit of research over the past week or so on the cost of living in Ensenada. I've been to a number of sites that offer advice for those wishing to relocate overseas (numbeo and tripadvisor especially) and I'm finding it hard to believe just how inexpensive it is to live in Ensenada. For example: a clean, fully furnished one-bedroom apt. right on (or very near to) the beach for just $150-$200 a month?...It sounds kinda fishy to me; almost too good to be true.

Reason I ask is that I plan on moving to Mexico sometime within the next year-and-a-half; and as Ensenada seems like my cup of tea, along with the fact that I'll only have a little over $800 a month to cover ALL expenses, I'm wondering if the prices for decent long-term rentals are for real, or is there some kind of catch to all this.

Much more to ask, but this opener will do for now.

thanks in advance for your help,
Rob


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## RVGRINGO

You can find those kind of prices, but you might find better places in the $5-6500 peso range; especially if you need a place to park. The online sites are to be taken with a grain of salt, as some entries are very old.
Your first challenge is to meet the financial qualifications for residence in Mexico. Visit the nearest Mexican consulate in your home country to apply. Otherwise, you must remain a tourist and leave every 180 days.


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## lagoloo

From your post, it sounds like you have very limited income, so your major problem is what RVGringo mentioned: qualifying income-wise for residence in Mexico. See the Mexican consulate for details.
After getting that matter straight, you can think about looking for a place to live. Some of the ads are a tad misleading, but there are cheap digs in Mexico.


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## RobHoffman

RVGRINGO said:


> You can find those kind of prices, but you might find better places in the $5-6500 peso range; especially if you need a place to park. The online sites are to be taken with a grain of salt, as some entries are very old.
> Your first challenge is to meet the financial qualifications for residence in Mexico. Visit the nearest Mexican consulate in your home country to apply. Otherwise, you must remain a tourist and leave every 180 days.


I'm probably going to wind up selling my car, flying from Tampa, Fl. to San Diego (a one-way ticket will set me back about $300) and taking a bus from there to Ensenada. After that, I'll be relying on public transportation, so add-on fees for parking won't be something I'll have to worry about.

And thanks for the "grain of salt" tip on apt. rentals. I'm somewhat leery of scamming real estate agents (most of whom want $ up front for a place sight unseen), and that brings up another question: What about hostels in Ensenada? I'd imagine there be at least one or two. I'd much rather stay in one till I get my bearings and am able to take a little time to do some apt. "shopping", not rush into anything.

And just one more question (for now anyway). I've read that visits to a doctor's office can be as low as $2 a pop -- can that be right? Are these guys _licensed_ physicians? or backroom quacks specializing in late-term abortions? Anyway, if things aren't what they're cracked up to be, being a US military veteran -- and assuming that I do run into serious health issues -- an hour-long bus ride across the border and into a San Diego VA clinic or hospital should cover that.

thanks so very much for your help, RV; much appreciated,

Rob


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## RobHoffman

lagoloo said:


> From your post, it sounds like you have very limited income, so your major problem is what RVGringo mentioned: qualifying income-wise for residence in Mexico. See the Mexican consulate for details.
> After getting that matter straight, you can think about looking for a place to live. Some of the ads are a tad misleading, but there are cheap digs in Mexico.


 Wait a minute...you have to _qualify_ income-wise in order to be granted residence in Mexico? Now I know $800 a month is low by US standards of living, but I didn't see that as being much of a problem in Mexico.


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## RVGRINGO

The ‘Doc in a box‘ may cost only 20-30 pesos, but these are often new graduates with little actual experience, located at a pharmacy. They are not as common as they were ten years ago. A qualified, experienced specialist will be more likely to cost $300 to $600 pesos for a consultation; more if treatment is required. As for the VA, you probably know that appointments are required and treatment is slow. You cannot have medicines mailed to Mexico.
You still have not indicated how you intend to qualify for a residence visa. Frankly, I would hate to have to subsist on the amount you have mentioned. Expenses mount up and things are not nearly as inexpensive here as they were when we arrived over a decade ago. I can‘t imagine how you will pay rent and buy groceries, to say nothing of utilities and transportation, medical, etc. There is no welfare system for you in Mexico.
Yes, you will have to prove monthly income of something like $2000.00 USD per month to qualify for a Residente Temporal Visa. It is even more for a Residente Permanente Visa, which grants the right to work and does not require renewal each year. You can visit Mexico for up to 180 days on a tourist permit, but you may not work with that permit, or with a Residente Temporal which has not been approved by INM (Immigration).
That said, Baja Norte is a rather free zone for tourists, but if you want more permanent residence and privileges, a visa is your answer.


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## Isla Verde

RobHoffman said:


> Wait a minute...you have to _qualify_ income-wise in order to be granted residence in Mexico? Now I know $800 a month is low by US standards of living, but I didn't see that as being much of a problem in Mexico.


Yes, you do. Right now the income required is around $1900 US a month. While it is true that you can live on much less than that (my basic monthly budget comes to around $1200), that is what the Mexican government requires for those who want to live here permanently and hold a residence visa.


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## lagoloo

To sum up the moving to Mexico and living dirt cheap thought from yesteryear:
"It ain't like it used to be....many long years ago".

Things have changed: A lot.


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## chicois8

Ensenada is basically a port town with some beaches south of town, but remember this is the Pacific Ocean not the Gulf or Caribbean like Florida has...The town relies on fishing and tourists and is only 60 miles from the USA so is is more expensive than smaller towns on the mainland of Mexico...My Dr. charges 200 pesos a visit ( about $16.00 )....There are lots of folks selling books on how to retire in Mexico cheaply but the reality is people have problems with landlords, high electric bills and inflation.
I like this example of inflation, Fommers wrote a book in 1965 titled "Mexico on $5 a day" is was updated in 1984 titled " Mexico on $20 a day" and reissued in 1993 as "Mexico on $50 a day" so do you see what is and has happened in Mexico. Good luck


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## Isla Verde

lagoloo said:


> To sum up the moving to Mexico and living dirt cheap thought from yesteryear:
> "It ain't like it used to be....many long years ago".
> 
> Things have changed: A lot.


I wonder how "dirt cheap" the OP imagined living in Mexico would be before he started this thread.


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## lagoloo

On the bright side, forums like these are extremely helpful as "reality checks" for folks thinking about moving here and possibly relying on out of date information, rumor, and wishful thinking. 
I live in the Lake Chapala area, and a doctor visit to a GP is $250 pesos; a specialist around $600 pesos.
You can live on much less than the amount the govt. has set as the minimum to get the visas, but $800 in a tourist town would be a real squeeze. I'd say around $1200 US would take care of most singles, providing they weren't into a bunch of $$$ "recreation".


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## futureexpat23

Quick question, I know the original poster is single, but if there are 2 of us, is that $1900 X 2, or still just the $1900? Thx!


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## RVGRINGO

It is per individual, but a married couple can enter with one qualifying and the other on a tourist permit. Once the visa has been issued in Mexico (not the pre-approval from the cousulate) in a few months, the second can apply to INM, in Mexico, for equal status without financial proofs, etc., under vincula familial rules. That also applies to chidren in the family, or even concubines if that relationship is proven with state records from your state of origin.


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## futureexpat23

OK, thanks! Glad to hear that, I was thinking if it was $3800 we would stop our planning right now 

I understand needing to show we have income, but that would be difficult to manage.


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## RVGRINGO

You will need to show a few months of current bank statements to prove an income stream in the name of the individual who will apply for the residence visa. Otherwise, untouched large investment/savings accounts well over $100,000.00 USD, depending upon the current exchange rate.


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## futureexpat23

that's good to know - we were hoping to retire before we are both collecting Social Security, but if we have to show income like that we may have to change that plan - or start on the IRA's - I think I read that Belize requires you to deposit $24,000/year in a bank there, does Mexico allow anything like that? Of course that may not be the ideal option either, I still need to find out exactly how everyone pays their bills, so much to learn!


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## RVGRINGO

Mexico does not require you to have a Mexican bank account. Many of us keep our US or Canadian bank accounts, get cash from ATMs, which are everywhere in this cash economy, and do everything else online. One pays bills in Mexico in person and credit cards are not often used.
For example: We get our CFE electric bill every two months (if they manage to arrive) and pay them at CFE or any number of convenience or grocery stores. The same for the monthly phone bill. We pay Telecable once each year and get two months free for doing so. Everything else is paid by cash on the spot. It is really pretty simple. We have not written a check in 13 years.


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## futureexpat23

Once a year sounds very convenient! I had read about ATMs, but wondered about fees, honestly I haven't used an ATM except for our bank's in years, so I don't even know if they still charge fees 

It does sound very simple, 1 less thing to worry about.


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## Isla Verde

RVGRINGO said:


> It is per individual, but a married couple can enter with one qualifying and the other on a tourist permit. Once the visa has been issued in Mexico (not the pre-approval from the cousulate) in a few months, the second can apply to INM, in Mexico, for equal status without financial proofs, etc., under vincula familial rules. That also applies to chidren in the family, or even concubines if that relationship is proven with state records from your state of origin.


Thanks for posting this information, RV. Since I'm single, I don't keep up with the perks that being married can give you as regards moving to Mexico.


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## vantexan

RobHoffman said:


> Wait a minute...you have to _qualify_ income-wise in order to be granted residence in Mexico? Now I know $800 a month is low by US standards of living, but I didn't see that as being much of a problem in Mexico.


Have you considered other countries? With your budget I'd look at countries Spirit Airlines flies to, especially Nicaragua.


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## ojosazules11

vantexan said:


> Have you considered other countries? With your budget I'd look at countries Spirit Airlines flies to, especially Nicaragua.


There are many wonderful things about Nicaragua and her vibrant, friendly people - but be advised that Nicaragua is unremittingly hot and humid, and not just on the coast.


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## vantexan

ojosazules11 said:


> There are many wonderful things about Nicaragua and her vibrant, friendly people - but be advised that Nicaragua is unremittingly hot and humid, and not just on the coast.


Except in the northern highlands around Esteli, Matagalpa, and Jinotega where temps average about 10-15 degrees cooler than Managua, Granada, and Leon. Still plenty warm with pleasant nights.


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## terrybahena

Not sure if the OP is still reading this thread, but you can find pretty cheap rent in and south of Ensenada, however I would not do it from an online realtor. I have an American friend in Ensenada who really liked his realtor who found him what he was looking for in rents. For us- after a couple of mis-steps, we are on the beach, about 45 min south of Ensenada, in a mobile home with 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, do not pay water or garbage, rent is $250 a month, and CFE is about $35 a month. So it can be done. BUT- we tried to budget and live on less than $1000 a month (oh and we have 2 dogs)...and we don't eat out or drink/party....but the truth is the car needs new tires, or the truck needs a whatchacallit fixed because the roads mostly dirt are hard on your vehicles. My husband needs some dental work...I had an issue with my wrist- the dogs need shots, I want a massage...etc., what I'm saying is life happens, and it cost money. Going to the dr is about 35 pesos...but if you need tests/special treatments it's a little more. It is way cheaper than the US...but it ain't free.


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## sparks

Don't know if anyone told the OP you don't need to qualify for anything if you are on 180 day tourist permits and that's pretty easy to do living close to the border


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## andi_correa

So the question remains...have you made the move yet? What do you think?


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## Isla Verde

Since his initial posts made in July of last year, the OP has disappeared from this forum, so there's a good chance he won't be reading your question.


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## andi_correa

IslaVerde - 

Bummer but thanks for letting me know 

~andi~


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## BajaRick16

Isla Verde said:


> Yes, you do. Right now the income required is around $1900 US a month. While it is true that you can live on much less than that (my basic monthly budget comes to around $1200), that is what the Mexican government requires for those who want to live here permanently and hold a residence visa.


There is a formula used to calculate the income requirement. It fluctuates with the Mexican minimum wage, and based on what I have most recently found ,it is now 300 times the minimum daily pay, or 70.15 pesos. That equates to 21,030 pesos. Converting to US Dollars at a 16 to 1 Exchange rate, it comes to about $1,314 U.S.D. That's for the permit for up to 4 years.

For the permanent Visa, they use 500 days, so the income would have to be 67% higher, or approx. $2,190. You won't see these #s elsewhere as they are using an outdated Exchange rate 15.


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## mes1952

Also it is the 2nd poorest country in the Western Hemisphere after Haiti so services are going to be very different even from Mexico.


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## mes1952

I have lived in several places within the past 6 months in the Ensenada area including Estereo Beach, Cantu & now Punta Banda which are south of Ensenada and everything I found that has limited noise with dogs &/or music in in the $300 plus range. It all depends on what you are seeking. Also if you are not accustomed to the heat, that might be a factor. The heat index here has increased and since most places don't have A/C or fans it might be uncomfortable. I've lived in TJ, Rosarito and now here and don't find Ensenada any cheaper than the other places and it is definitely farther from the border. I live on a $1,000/month budget but I rarely eat out, don't go to the bars (the major past time for most here). Also the whole state in in a draught situation so unless you are directly on the beach you will have to deal with a lot of dirt and dust. I'm sure (based on what my Mexican friends have told me) there are much cheaper places to live in Mexico (and I plan to find them in 2016) but most American expats aren't willing to cut the apron strings from the U.S. to move farther away.


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## Isla Verde

mes1952 said:


> . . . I'm sure (based on what my Mexican friends have told me) there are much cheaper places to live in Mexico (and I plan to find them in 2016) but most American expats aren't willing to cut the apron strings from the U.S. to move farther away.


Thay may be true for US expats whose main reasons for moving to Mexico are good weather and a lower cost of living, but that's not true for me and for the American expats I know in Mexico.


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## TundraGreen

mes1952 said:


> …but most American expats aren't willing to cut the apron strings from the U.S. to move farther away.


Are you referring to most US Expats living near the border? As Isla mentioned, there are certainly lots of foreigners living in central and eastern Mexico.


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## lagoloo

IMHO, being content as an expat in Mexico requires cutting those apron strings, both mentally and physically. 

A person can decide he/she "needs" the imported foods and clothing which requires that he/she "needs" to go NOB for shopping, or he/she can decide to have both feet in Mexico, get used to the local products and save a lot of money and time that would have been spent traveling north. Some specialty products related to avocations or professions can be imported by telephone, using email and patience waiting for their arrival. What's the hurry?

My spouse and I moved to Mexico 11 years ago tomorrow. Pass the tequila to celebrate.
We flew back to CA two years ago for a family funeral and stayed four days. That was the only trip NOB. Our adult kids have been weaned off their fears by experience and they come here to visit us periodically. They enjoyed the differences.

From what I hear from friends, having one foot NOB and the other here is just plain confusing, like a relationship with no commitment.


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## jackinbox

lagoloo said:


> IMHO, being content as an expat in Mexico requires cutting those apron strings, both mentally and physically.
> 
> A person can decide he/she "needs" the imported foods and clothing which requires that he/she "needs" to go NOB for shopping, or he/she can decide to have both feet in Mexico, get used to the local products and save a lot of money and time that would have been spent traveling north. Some specialty products related to avocations or professions can be imported by telephone, using email and patience waiting for their arrival. What's the hurry?
> 
> My spouse and I moved to Mexico 11 years ago tomorrow. Pass the tequila to celebrate.
> We flew back to CA two years ago for a family funeral and stayed four days. That was the only trip NOB. Our adult kids have been weaned off their fears by experience and they come here to visit us periodically. They enjoyed the differences.
> 
> From what I hear from friends, having one foot NOB and the other here is just plain confusing, like a relationship with no commitment.


I'm going to disagree with this slightly. My wife and I intend on having both feet in Mexico for the most part, but there are advantages to living near the border. 

For one, we have several friends in Southern California and it would be nice to go up and meet them for dinner once in a while. Maybe once every year or two we might like to spend the day at Disneyland or attend a concert. While we feel Mexico has pretty much everything we need, I don't see anything wrong with taking advantage of being so close to San Diego. The analogy I'd use is my friends who live in Northern New Jersey (about 45 minutes from New York City). They rarely go into Manhattan, but it's close by if they want to do something special. 

I do agree with part of what you are saying. Reading on other forums, there are people in Rosarito who regularly go NOB and load the car up with groceries, stop off at In-N-Out Burger, hit all the big box stores, etc. That wouldn't be us. We're excited about the Mexican lifestyle and perfectly happy with cutting ties with the things we've grown accustomed to in the U.S. But I'd be lying if I said we'll never go NOB to do anything.


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## lagoloo

jackinbox said:


> I'm going to disagree with this slightly. My wife and I intend on having both feet in Mexico for the most part, but there are advantages to living near the border.
> 
> For one, we have several friends in Southern California and it would be nice to go up and meet them for dinner once in a while. Maybe once every year or two we might like to spend the day at Disneyland or attend a concert. While we feel Mexico has pretty much everything we need, I don't see anything wrong with taking advantage of being so close to San Diego. The analogy I'd use is my friends who live in Northern New Jersey (about 45 minutes from New York City). They rarely go into Manhattan, but it's close by if they want to do something special.
> 
> I do agree with part of what you are saying. Reading on other forums, there are people in Rosarito who regularly go NOB and load the car up with groceries, stop off at In-N-Out Burger, hit all the big box stores, etc. That wouldn't be us. We're excited about the Mexican lifestyle and perfectly happy with cutting ties with the things we've grown accustomed to in the U.S. But I'd be lying if I said we'll never go NOB to do anything.


Our situations are very different since we live in the lake Chapala area near Guadalajara and going NOB is a very big deal in terms of time and money. In your case, you're very near the border, and it's nice that you can take advantage of the closeness to see your friends. In our case, it's lane:


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## BajaRick16

*Need a car?*

I am looking to relocate to Ensenada as it will be relatively easy for me to drive there from my current home in San Jose. It will be nice to have my vehicle so i can drive. 
My question: I was considering other places in Mexico, and have heard of Lake Chapala and the many Expats living there. So what is the solution regarding a car? Did you sell what you had in the states, and buy one there? Choose not to have a car and use public transportation and walking only? Curious...Thanks in advance.


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## WintheWin

If you're in the northern-baja tourist zone, whichh i believe is a major part of the peninsula, you don't really need a permit or anything. Most people who I know hold dual citizenship use it to their advantage to buy US plated cars. As long as your reg is valid, you don't really get hassled. Technically, I believe you're only supposed to have your car in Mexico like 4-5 days, but realistically, they have no way to check since the various government entities don't really communicate. Further from Ensenada, I don't really know what the dealio is.


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## BajaRick16

...wasn't really concerned with permits or plates. I was asking what people do when they are so far into Mexico that they can't/don't drive their vehicle. I'm sure it depends where they are as public trans. and walking may be all they need....Looking for best practices...


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## TundraGreen

BajaRick16 said:


> I am looking to relocate to Ensenada as it will be relatively easy for me to drive there from my current home in San Jose. It will be nice to have my vehicle so i can drive.
> My question: I was considering other places in Mexico, and have heard of Lake Chapala and the many Expats living there. So what is the solution regarding a car? Did you sell what you had in the states, and buy one there? Choose not to have a car and use public transportation and walking only? Curious...Thanks in advance.


Your choices depend on the nature of your status with regard to Mexican immigration. If you are in Mexico on a Tourist Permit or on a Residencial Temporal visa, you can bring a US plated vehicle into the country. You pay a deposit and get a Temporary Import Permit (TIP). The car has to leave the country when you do, every time if you are here on a Tourist Permit. I am not sure about whether the cars of people on Residencial Temporal have to leave every time they do, but for either case, Tourist Permit or Residencial Temporal, the car eventually has to leave Mexico. 

After 4 years as a Residencial Temporal you will be converted to Residencial Permanente. At that point it is illegal to have a US plated car in Mexico and such a vehicle would have to leave. It would have to leave even if it is no longer running or used. Tow it or drive it, but it has to leave the country.

The other option you mention is much easier. If you are in any of the moderate sized or large cities, you can easily get around walking and riding buses or subways with perhaps an occasional taxi. It will be cheaper and healthier than owning a car. The intercity bus system is excellent or rental cars are available for longer trips. This is particularly true for adults. If I were still raising small children, it might be harder to get by without a car.


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## mes1952

Ensenada is around 100 miles away from the border...not 60 miles so not sure where you got that info. I would be wary of anything under $300/month anywhere in the area as it probably means you have a lot of noise, questionable neighborhood, dirt roads, etc. You have to Visit the area rather than depending on the internet otherwise you might be surprised at what you'll find for those low prices. It is not any cheaper than TJ or Rosarito.
And within a year or two things will change so your researched info might be out of date.


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## mes1952

Having lived in Baja Norte for several years, I would NOT want to be here without a car unless I was in TJ. Things are not like in other areas such as DF or Guadalajara or Monterrey. You need a car unless you plan to live right in the city otherwise you will be spending a lot of time on public transportation.


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## mes1952

Where did you get that info about 4-5 days?? Never heard of that before. Ive lived here on/off for several years and have South Dakota license plates.


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## mes1952

I TOTALLY agree Iagaloo. This is why the majority of expats esp. in Baja never are totally happy living in Mexico & complain about everything. Also very few of them speak Spanish though they've lived here for many years. When I lived in TJ & Rosarito I crossed the border often for part-time jobs. I have been in Ensenada for 6 months and I have never been back to the U.S. and don't intend to return until I travel to another part of Mexico. What is the point of going across the border to find something I can't locate here in Mexico; I simply substitute for something else. That's why the farther away from the U.S. border you go there is a difference in the type of American expat you encounter.


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## jackinbox

mes1952 said:


> Ensenada is around 100 miles away from the border...not 60 miles so not sure where you got that info.


Most of the online references list it as anywhere from 68-72 miles from what I see. 

Baja Bound lists it as 45 minutes from Rosarito Beach and another 30 minutes from there to the border. 

Baja Driving Distances and Maps - Baja Bound Mexican Insurance


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## mes1952

If you check Google from Ensenada to San Ysidro it says over 100 miles. I believe them before the other sites. I've lived in all those places and it is definitely not 60 miles.


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## mes1952

And don't believe when any of those sites say it's a little over an hour drive; more like 1 1/2 hours or more depending on traffic in TJ which is never factored in.


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## chicois8

mes1952 said:


> If you check Google from Ensenada to San Ysidro it says over 100 miles. I believe them before the other sites. I've lived in all those places and it is definitely not 60 miles.



WRONG, It is 104 KM or 62 miles from the border at Tijuana to Ensenada...


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## TundraGreen

mes1952 said:


> Where did you get that info about 4-5 days?? Never heard of that before. Ive lived here on/off for several years and have South Dakota license plates.


Was your question "Where did you get that info about 4-5 days??" referring to my post about time limits on US plated cars? If so, it was 4 years, not 4 days, and the limits apply in most of Mexico, but not in the Zona Frontera which includes Baja and a strip along the US border in the rest of Mexico.


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## lagoloo

BajaRick16 said:


> I am looking to relocate to Ensenada as it will be relatively easy for me to drive there from my current home in San Jose. It will be nice to have my vehicle so i can drive.
> My question: I was considering other places in Mexico, and have heard of Lake Chapala and the many Expats living there. So what is the solution regarding a car? Did you sell what you had in the states, and buy one there? Choose not to have a car and use public transportation and walking only? Curious...Thanks in advance.


There is excellent bus service. There are taxis as well as for hire drivers. I brought down a vehicle, but after four years on a temporary visa, I needed to get rid of the U.S. plated car to be driving legally, so I bought a new car here and got Mexican plates. Life is easier in the area of lake Chapala if you have your own wheels. Walking is good, depending on distances and where you choose to live.


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## mes1952

Especially in Baja where expats have overrun many areas causing big spikes in prices. My Mexican friends complain about this all the time.


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## WintheWin

TundraGreen said:


> Was your question "Where did you get that info about 4-5 days??" referring to my post about time limits on US plated cars? If so, it was 4 years, not 4 days, and the limits apply in most of Mexico, but not in the Zona Frontera which includes Baja and a strip along the US border in the rest of Mexico.


I think he was referring to a post I made about Baja Norte, to my knowledge, if you're in BAJA Norte, within the tourist zone, you can bring your car in/out as long as it's currently registered in the states, without a tourist permit, as long as it doesn't stay "extended" time. 

Though the government has no way to verify how long the car's been in the country, since they don't ask you for any documentation while staying so close to the border.

Ok, so…
Did a little research. Apparently, expats are allowed into the baja zone for something like 72 hours, up to distance of Ensenada, without a visitor's/tourist permit.

Technically. You know, no one really checks this stuff. 

So, I assume, if you're here longer than 72 hours, you and your car are here, you know, illegally.

(Side story… one time, flying back from Mexico City to Mexicali, I got held up at Mexicali customs, because I didn't have my travel permit, and they threatened to deport me to the USA, then they followed by telling me that they didn't have the funds to do that, but that it wasn't fair that in the USA they deport people all the time. *shrug* )


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