# Tijuana



## albertlb

I am an elderly retired US citizen currently living in Buenos Aires, Argentina. I am thinking of moving to a beach apartment in Tijuana, Mexico. I would like to talk to some retired Americans living in Tijuana to discuss the safety and living conditions there. Can anyone help me?


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## justsomedude

I am also curious about Tijuana.


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## marthavictoria1

My mother is from Tijuana. Playas de Tijuana area is not all that pretty. It is very polluted. Mexico has so many beautiful places, why would you choose Tijuana? Please visit Tijuana before you decide yo settle here. It is very crowded not only with people but houses. You look at the hills and all you see is houses. Remember Tijuana is the hub of all people that want to cross the border illegally. If you want to cross the border to the US it takes 2 to 3 hours to cross from both Otay Mesa and main border crossing. I was in Tijuana just 2 weeks ago to see family.


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## buzzbar

I am neither retired nor American, but do live in Tijuana and would be more than happy to give you my thoughts on safety and living conditions here if you want to listen to them. It will include how much I enjoy life in clean, green and friendly Playas De Tijuana, where beachside living is affordable and fun. I don't have a car so roam around the city by bus and on foot - never had reason to be concerned about my safety. Forum rules don't allow me to provide any of my details, so when you've made your five posts PM me if you want to get in touch. (Ditto for you, dude.)


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## albertlb

What country are you from and how long have you lived in Tijuana?


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## buzzbar

Australia, seven months.


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## buzzbar

And actually I’m telling lies. There was one time, but one time only, that I WAS a little fearful of my safety. I had to drop a package off at the Fedex office, which is on the outskirts of the town in a rather rough area, but fortunately just a block off the Playas bus route. When I was at the bus stop to return home, I saw a down and out looking guy carrying a bag and standing a few meters away. He had a real menacing vibe about him, and he was staring closely at me. Then he slowly started to move towards me. I knew something was about to go down, and all I could do was hope the two other people at the bus stop would lend a hand if it turned bad. The guy continued to inch forward until he was right next to me. He put his head close to mine…….. I’m bracing myself for whatever it was that was about to happen. And it did happen. He said quietly, right in my ear “Hey senor…..you want to buy a chihuahua?” While I’m standing there wondering what chihuahua is code for, he opens his bag and pulls out this little dog. “Is very good. He make a good pet. You like? If you want, I give it to you very cheap." Luckily the bus arrived then, or who knows how it might have ended


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## albertlb

Thanks for you further reply. I am looking at an apartment on the beach furnished for $1250 a month. How does this compare with where you live?
I read about a lot of crime, plice corruption, kidnapping, polution of the ocean waters, and other bad things which sound unlike what you are telling me. Have you met many retired Americans living near you?


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## buzzbar

Albert, are we talking Playas de Tijuana here, or beach areas further south? The rent you quote makes me wonder if it might be the latter.......


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## justsomedude

buzzbar said:


> And actually I’m telling lies. There was one time, but one time only, that I WAS a little fearful of my safety. I had to drop a package off at the Fedex office, which is on the outskirts of the town in a rather rough area, but fortunately just a block off the Playas bus route. When I was at the bus stop to return home, I saw a down and out looking guy carrying a bag and standing a few meters away. He had a real menacing vibe about him, and he was staring closely at me. Then he slowly started to move towards me. I knew something was about to go down, and all I could do was hope the two other people at the bus stop would lend a hand if it turned bad. The guy continued to inch forward until he was right next to me. He put his head close to mine…….. I’m bracing myself for whatever it was that was about to happen. And it did happen. He said quietly, right in my ear “Hey senor…..you want to buy a chihuahua?” While I’m standing there wondering what chihuahua is code for, he opens his bag and pulls out this little dog. “Is very good. He make a good pet. You like? If you want, I give it to you very cheap." Luckily the bus arrived then, or who knows how it might have ended



What a great build up-- I had to laugh Buzz!

I will be PM'ing you soon (As you can see I am brand new)


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## albertlb

I will ask the realtor where this apt is located and I will get back to you.


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## justsomedude

albertlb said:


> I will ask the realtor where this apt is located and I will get back to you.


Is this $1250 US-Dollars?

Or 1250 Mexican Pesos?


Which ever it is- neither does not sound correct from what I am being told about the area.


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## albertlb

US dollars. It looks very nice in the pictures. It has fireplaces in the living room and master bedroom. Also all appliances, dishwasher, washing machine, dryer and etc.


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## justsomedude

albertlb said:


> US dollars. It looks very nice in the pictures. It has fireplaces in the living room and master bedroom. Also all appliances, dishwasher, washing machine, dryer and etc.


I think for that price it would be very nice---I hope it does work out for you and I hope you love Tijuana.



When are you planning to move, Albert?


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## TundraGreen

albertlb said:


> US dollars. It looks very nice in the pictures. It has fireplaces in the living room and master bedroom. Also all appliances, dishwasher, washing machine, dryer and etc.


I don't know that area, but nearly $17,000 pesos/month sounds like a lot of rent for any place I am familiar with.


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## Isla Verde

TundraGreen said:


> I don't know that area, but nearly $17,000 pesos/month sounds like a lot of rent for any place I am familiar with.


That amount of money would get you a palace in a really posh neighborhood in Mexico City. Apartments posted online that are aimed at the expat market tend to be over-priced.


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## buzzbar

I'll wait patiently for Albert, but suspect the apartment will not be in Playas itself. If it is, it'd have to be in Villas Del Mar I reckon, which is an oasis of beachfront luxury. I couldn't find a decent pic online, so here's one I took (the Amish folk are a separate story!) $1,250 sounds about right..... By way of comparison, I've got absolute beachfront facing the water a mile further up the coast and pay $475 with all included (gas, water, electricity, cable and internet)


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## ojosazules11

So do we get to hear the story of the Amish folk?


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## buzzbar

Heh, sorry, there’s not really a story there – I just mentioned it because I thought anyone who looked at the photo of the building may find it odd to see Amish on the beaches of Tijuana. I certainly did when I first saw them, so asked around. Apparently they’re originally from Wisconsin. A group of Amish had some sort of a dispute with an elder, so just up and left. For some reason they found their way to Playas De Tijuana and a large group live in a compound just off the beach. Usually late in the afternoon some come down to the water, with the men in their hats, long sleeved shirts, overalls or thick pants and heavy black boots, and the women in their long dresses and bonnets. A couple of the younger ones might take their shoes off, but beach activities for others seem to only extend to following a wave as it recedes, then running up the beach as it comes back in, so their shoes don’t get wet. I know a few of them well enough to smile and nod, and eventually I’ll try and get some sort of conversation going. I assume they don’t take too kindly to outsiders though.


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## albertlb

Can you tell me anything about playa blanca? I am considering an apartment there.


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## buzzbar

I'm no help - never been down that way sorry. I'd suggest checking out a couple of the Baja specific groups and FB pages and putting the q there....


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## Monty Floyd

I'm starting my third year in Rosarito, just south of TJ. 
One bedroom apt, sixth floor, ocean view, downtown view, mountain view, 2 blocks from the beach, security, maid service, utilities except electric, close enough to walk anywhere I want to go, $350US/mn.
For the money you're willing to spend, you should have no problem finding a place.


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## albertlb

Thank you very much for your replly. I am an elderly retired man so I am concerned mostly about security. Your accomidations sound great for the money. Are there many Americans livning in your building? Any retired folks like me?
Be kind enough to tell me what you don't like about Rosarito, Mexico, or your sorroundings. Is the ocean water poluted? How about drinking water. In past years I have visited Mexico many times and unfortunately always got sick.


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## claybob

Buzzbar, your Chihuahua story had me cracking up. I've spent a week in TJ and the only scary experience I had was being confronted by two angry drunkereds on the US side at the San Ysidro McDs.

It's been a while since your last post on this thread and I'm interested in an update on your experience. A buddy and our wives will be visiting TJ and staying in Playas again this summer as another expat trial run and any info you can provide before hand would be much appreciate.


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## xolo

I think the TJ area is viable for retirement if you can find a place you like and especially if you want to be close to California (US California). It does have its appeal.


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## claybob

Thanks Ma's. I'm relatively young, early 30s, and not quite ready to retire. I can work remotely, but will need easy access to San Diego for my wife's work.


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## buzzbar

Still here Claybob, still having a blast and looking forward to a long hot summer on the sand. As you found from your visit, there’s really not many Americans living around the main beach area near the border fence at all. Even on the weekends when you’d expect Americans who commute to San Diego on weekdays would be out and about on the boardwalk, the chances are you could walk for an hour and not see one ******. Can’t say I’ve made too much of an effort lately to get to know the few expats here – seems a very transient population and the Americans I’ve met over the months have all been a bit shady, living here temporarily while on the run from IRS, police, child support or all three. 

Seems no one stays here too long, but for me it’s a very comfortable life. Right on the beach, glorious sunset views every evening, cheap rent, fast internet, USA cell phone reception and TV channels from SD and LA, plenty of bars, cafes and restaurants a few steps away, regular, cheap and fast(!!!) public transport to Tijuana centro and the border, a huge market further down the beach every Monday morning, and a nice little commercial center, including Calimax, Walmart and Mega supermarkets. For me, the main appeal is something you’d have seen when you visited - the place is set up for Tijuana locals. You won’t find ANY businesses targeting expats, not like Rosarito down the road with its large expat community and proliferation of “Bertha’s Famous Big American Burgers” type of businesses. Here it’s all for the residents and visitors from other parts of Tijuana, so you have no choice but to get your Spanish up to scratch. As you’d have found on your previous visit, you won’t hear or read English around here and the people you will meet and interact with on a daily basis will be Mexicans. 

I cross as a pedestrian to San Diego once a week, and the expansion of the toll booths has made a world of difference. I can’t comment on how it is for vehicles, but for the last three weeks there hasn’t been a pedestrian queue at all when I’ve crossed – you just wander straight through the gates right up to where you present your passport. After previous queues of up to four hours it feels totally weird…… Even if I owned a vehicle I wouldn’t drive across – the bus from Playas stops right at the border which makes it a fast and easy trip. 

Anyway, enough rambling ….drop me a PM if you want to discuss further or catch up. 

PS, I just saw in the other thread a comment from AlanMexicali about “rolling up the sidewalks at 10pm.” That’s a fact – Playas is a day time destination for Mexican families. The only people on the streets after about 10pm are not the type you’d want to meet, so if you’re after vibrant nightlife fun, you won’t find it in Playas.


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## AlanMexicali

buzzbar that is how I remember Playa and have had a US friend living there for over 1 1/2 decades. He still likes it and won´t move anywhere else last time I visited him 4 years ago. Another work friend from San Diego was raised there and I went to a couple of fiestas at his mom´s house there. Very nice family, friends, and neighbors she has. I like the atmosphere. Someone posted they are closing the Sanborns in Playa. Did they? I used to stop there for breakfast on my way to Rosarito years ago.


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## buzzbar

Sanborns is history Alan! if you’re ever visiting or passing thru Playas again and looking for breakfast here’s the next best place :smokin:


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## claybob

buzzbar said:


> Right on the beach, glorious sunset views every evening, cheap rent, fast internet, USA cell phone reception and TV channels from SD and LA, plenty of bars, cafes and restaurants a few steps away,


I'm curious which cell phone provider you use? We have AT&T and had spotty coverage during our visit. We ended up buying a prepaid Movistar SIM card for our visit, but we really need something that works well on both sides of the border if we are commuting.

The T-Mobile Simple Choice plans which now include free unlimited international texting and data seems like a good option. 

Also, which local high speed carriers are available in Playas de Tijuana?


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## TundraGreen

claybob said:


> I'm curious which cell phone provider you use? We have AT&T and had spotty coverage during our visit. We ended up buying a prepaid Movistar SIM card for our visit, but we really need something that works well on both sides of the border if we are commuting.
> 
> The T-Mobile Simple Choice plans which now include free unlimited international texting and data seems like a good option.
> 
> Also, which local high speed carriers are available in Playas de Tijuana?


I don't know what the best solution would be for commuters. I used to have two dumb phones, one for the US (T-Mobile prepaid) and one for Mexico (Telcel prepaid). Now I have one smart phone and I just swap SIM cards every time I cross the border. It is fine for me since I only visit the US once or twice a year. It would be a pain for a commuter.


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## buzzbar

I tested out both AT&T and T-Mobile reception in Playas and saw no difference between the two. Reception is fine at the northern end of the beach, and decent even a mile or two south of the fence along the coast. So places overlooking or close to the beach are fine, then it starts to fade away. There are pockets of good reception, but if you’re on the flat and well away from both the fence or beach, from what I’ve found it probably won’t be perfect. 

With unlocked cell phones being so cheap in USA, and so many cheap international calling options available, everyone I know just has two phones and takes advantage of having both a Mexican and USA phone number. PAYG Telcel or Movistar is fine....


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## claybob

buzzbar said:


> With unlocked cell phones being so cheap in USA, and so many cheap international calling options available, everyone I know just has two phones and takes advantage of having both a Mexican and USA phone number. PAYG Telcel or Movistar is fine....


I think a dual SIM phone might be the perfect option to take advantage of having both a USA and Mexican number without having to carry around two phones or switching SIM cards when crossing the border.

Amazon.com: Motorola XT1068 Moto G (2ND GENERATION - 2014) DUAL SIM 8GB Factory Unlocked 3G Phone - Black (International Version - No Warranty): Cell Phones & Accessories


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## buzzbar

I reckon the dual sim phones available are pretty low end and sold at inflated prices – you can get an Iphone 5 for the price of the 3g Motorola dual sim…..But I guess I’m one of the many phone snobs, having a cheapie for the Mexican sim and a bells and whistles one for USA.


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## claybob

I do a lot of my work from my smartphone. There are days I wish I could go back to the old flip-phone and forget it, but those days are long gone for me unless I switch careers. Then again, the ability to complete my work via smartphone and tablet is the reason I can even consider hanging out on the beaches of Tijuana in the first place. Double-edged sword, I suppose.


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## TundraGreen

buzzbar said:


> I reckon the dual sim phones available are pretty low end and sold at inflated prices – you can get an Iphone 5 for the price of the 3g Motorola dual sim…..But I guess I’m one of the many phone snobs, having a cheapie for the Mexican sim and a bells and whistles one for USA.


I was like you except I had a good phone for Mexico and a cheapie for the US. Now I just use the good phone and swap SIMs. For someone who commutes weekly, the cheapest, most satisfactory solution is probably two phones. Without analyzing the plans in detail, my guess is that would allow one to pick the best phone plan for their use in each country and would be cheaper in the long run than one company's international option.


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## claybob

Do you guys have any experience or thoughts on leaving a car on the US side? Is there monthly parking available on the US side? I can find lots of info about daily parking, but monthly rates are no where to be found.


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## Playaboy

I purchased a dual sim chip phone a couple of days ago. Works great.


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## RVGRINGO

For car storage, you might use a regular self-storage facility, rather than an unsafe parking lot at a border crossing. Take a bus or taxi to the border crossing.


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## AlanMexicali

claybob said:


> Do you guys have any experience or thoughts on leaving a car on the US side? Is there monthly parking available on the US side? I can find lots of info about daily parking, but monthly rates are no where to be found.


When I looked for a guarded car parking lot I found several and remember where they are. One is near the San Ysirdo crossing next to the Factory Outlet Center. I think it cost $5.00 per day by the month. The others were about 1 to 1 1/2 miles from the Otay Mesa border crossing and were $4.00 US and $3.50 US per day for the monthly rate. This was 1 1/2 years ago. I ended up parking it on a horse ranch in East County San Diego for $445.00 US per year or $1.22 US per day.


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## UltraFJ40

I have to say that this is one of the most informative threads on any area that I've seen online. Thanks to you all for contributing in such an enlightening way, it is much appreciated.

Cheers to you all and especially Buzz!


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## Lawgrrl

*Amish in exile*



buzzbar said:


> Heh, sorry, there’s not really a story there – I just mentioned it because I thought anyone who looked at the photo of the building may find it odd to see Amish on the beaches of Tijuana. I certainly did when I first saw them, so asked around. Apparently they’re originally from Wisconsin. A group of Amish had some sort of a dispute with an elder, so just up and left. For some reason they found their way to Playas De Tijuana and a large group live in a compound just off the beach. Usually late in the afternoon some come down to the water, with the men in their hats, long sleeved shirts, overalls or thick pants and heavy black boots, and the women in their long dresses and bonnets. A couple of the younger ones might take their shoes off, but beach activities for others seem to only extend to following a wave as it recedes, then running up the beach as it comes back in, so their shoes don’t get wet. I know a few of them well enough to smile and nod, and eventually I’ll try and get some sort of conversation going. I assume they don’t take too kindly to outsiders though.


I believe there was a Hutterite or Mennonite settlement inland from Ensenada in the late '60s.


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## claybob

Hey expats, my wife and I will be in Tijuana from December 14th through December 18th. We will be exploring areas to live and employment options for her in hospitals in the Chula Vista area. I would love to meetup up with some of you to share beers or coffees and hear your stories about being an expat in TJ.


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## mes1952

Anyone who thinks the TJ area including Playas is so great needs to start reading the Spanish language Tijuana news such as La Frontera and you will quickly discover that murders all over the city are a daily occurrence. Just a couple of days ago there were 5 murders within an 8 hour period. So as others as said, why would anyone want to live there other than being close to the border to get across. The extremely polluted air and beaches in addition to the criminal activity would be enough for me to mark TJ off my list. I lived there in 2011 when it was a little safer but definitely would not now.
here's a link showing the incidence of crime in the TJ area. 
http://www.frontera.info/EdicionEnL...15/986849-Crimenes-invaden-zonas-seguras.html


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## mes1952

But you didn't mention the inconvenience of travel to the border involving time and gas costs so for most it won't be worth it.


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## mes1952

You'll discover that generally the expats living in TJ are different from those living in Rosarito and even difference in Ensenada. The farther away from the border there is a difference in the economic status of expats. Many expats exp. younger ones live closer to the border as many are on some kind of government assistance and/or don't have a car due to finances and therefore don't live too far from the border.


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## mes1952

Some of the plans from Nextel and Telcel don't have roaming charges for Mexico or U.S. I've seen them advertised on the Mexican TV stations. It part of the change in the telecommunication laws for more compeition.


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## mes1952

I read a lot of Mexican news sites daily and these are the 2 more informative I've found esp. for those living in Baja:

Another week, brings another series of executions and messages left for the ever decreasing survivors in the ongoing war for the Tijuana plaza's retail drug trade. 
Borderland Beat

Facebook Baja y Mas
https://www.facebook.com/groups/BajaYMas/


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## buzzbar

Hi Claybob! Yes, got your PM thanks and I'll reply to it shortly. Would love to meet up with you and tell you about the great life in Tijuana, particularly at the beach. Good that you don't sound like a hysterical sort of person who wants to whip himself into a fear frenzy by obsessing over news stories about low level drug dealers killing each other. If you did want to do some research, I'd suggest you visit the Government's Semarnat page and check out their readings of pollution levels at a range of beaches across Mexico - you'll see that Playas de Tijuana rates very well and by any definition couldn't be described as polluted. It's a fun life here - Tijuana is a large, cosmopolitan city with all the conveniences that brings, including a thriving food, music and art scene. With the new border lanes there's often no wait at all when crossing, so you'll have no difficulty commuting to San Diego if that's an intention. I'll give you more info in the PM!

PS, just some info for mes1952 - the Baja Y Mas facebook group you recommend is hardly a "Mexican news site". It's run by a guy living in San Diego who lost his life savings years ago in a failed Baja real estate venture. His resulting bitterness towards all things Mexican led to a full time hobby of digging up Spanish language news stories critical of Baja and Mexico and publishing their English translation. Fine if you share his sour view of Baja, but I find the whole thing a bit sad, and maybe even a little humiliating.


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