# Propane tank Drained!!!!!



## Mattskii

I was going to go for the "how long is a piece of string" question, but that is too easy!! (Twice as long as half it's length!) 

How long does an 11kg tank of propane last? 

2 users, showers every couple of days, cooking, washing up. 

We just had a tank drain completely in 3 weeks approx!!! I dontt think this can be right! We purchased a brand new regulator when we switched to Propane from butane a few weeks ago. The butane was not performing too well in this freezing weather! 

While I have your ear! Does anyone know how to increase the temperature produced by a gas boiler - even set to full we struggle to get water hot enough to shower comfortably in. It is always just warm. We purchased a new boiler, switched to propane, but still can't get good hot water. 

Thanks


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## canoeman

Exactly how longs a piece of string, the more you do the more you use.

Hot shower depends on how far your boiler is from shower can you make it hotter unlikely, you would be better fitting a electric immersion heater in close proximity or fitting a electric heated shower but you'll need to bring in from UK, both though will depend on access to bathroom pipes

Really you need to take the long term view for heating and hot water, and plan a co-ordinated system solar panels with hot water storage will decrease use of "gas" as would incorporating your heating/H/W into a single system, we only use "gas" for gas hob and also have a backup wall mounted boiler but never use


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## travelling-man

That consumption is probably about right. We have gas hot water but electric cookers and the same sized bottle lasts us about 21 days with daily showers.

Most boilers have a temperature adjustment dial on the front of them.


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## Mattskii

Thanks guys. Just surprised how quickly it all went! It's all good, new tank attached. lol

I have all the dials on the front the the boiler up to full. I just doesn't seem able to put enough heat into the water to get it really hot. It does seem to work better with propane though, than it did with butane.


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## Mattskii

canoeman said:


> Really you need to take the long term view for heating and hot water, and plan a co-ordinated system solar panels with hot water storage will decrease use of "gas" as would incorporating your heating/H/W into a single system, we only use "gas" for gas hob and also have a backup wall mounted boiler but never use


Exactly. this is the plan. We will put in solar water and electric this year, but we have only been here 5 minutes!! There is only so much can be done at a time!!


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## canoeman

Mattskii said:


> Exactly. this is the plan. We will put in solar water and electric this year, but we have only been here 5 minutes!! There is only so much can be done at a time!!


Personally I wouldn't bother with Solar Electric the cost involved in a serious system just doesn't add up, our average electricity bills are €80pm


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## BodgieMcBodge

Is yours a direct or indirect hot water boiler, do you have a "hot water tank" or does the water go directly from the boiler to the tap/shower? If direct then if you reduce the flow from the tap/shower does the water get hotter? What is the make and model of your boiler?


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## robc

canoeman said:


> Personally I wouldn't bother with Solar Electric the cost involved in a serious system just doesn't add up, our average electricity bills are €80pm


Agreed .........solar electric is not worth the effort and diminishing efficiency of the PV panels over the years. As for solar water I would absolutely do it again................strategic use of a water battery will give you plenty of hot water to use for heating, water heating etc. Just take plenty of time to go through the calculations several times so that you get enough solar panels but not too many and make sure that you get the switch gear set up correctly so that solar becomes primary source and gas secondary

Rob


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## siobhanwf

our solar water panels provide us with really hot water. we have a 200litre storage tank in the garage instead of the small tank beside the solar panels. well worth the slightly exztra cost. it is however backed up with electricity ( but has never switched over to it!!!!!)


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## canoeman

Plus if you integrate the solar into any other form of heating you will work 12 months of year, our storage tank is linked to panels, back burner wood stove and boiler so we never ever run out of hot water even when full of visitors some of which shower twice a day at least


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## robc

I agree canoe.....................I do find it helps if you ration visitors to a maximum of 1 shower per day 

Rob


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## siobhanwf

robc said:


> I agree canoe.....................I do find it helps if you ration visitors to a maximum of 1 shower per day
> 
> Rob




but OH the stink in summer.......


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## Mattskii

BodgieMcBodge said:


> Is yours a direct or indirect hot water boiler, do you have a "hot water tank" or does the water go directly from the boiler to the tap/shower? If direct then if you reduce the flow from the tap/shower does the water get hotter? What is the make and model of your boiler?



Sorry, missed this. 

It is a new gas boiler, a Neckar WN10KB direct to the taps. One problem is the long run the pipe makes through the roof!!! It needs insulating. But it it not hot in the kitchen either and that is 6 inches from the boiler!! The only way we can get it really hot is by turning the tap down to a trickle. You have to keep turning it up and balancing it against the gas turning off!! Having a shower in this cold weather is quite an art! lol It is made worse by the cold water supply running outdoors uninsulated. So much to be done. I was hoping someone might know a quick fix where I could adjust something in the boiler to make it hotter. Worth a try! lol 

Will certainly have solar fitted by next winter any way.


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## travelling-man

Matt

You've got several variables.

firstly, if you bought an ultra cheap boiler then it's probably low output and you can't make a silk purse out of a sow's ear so check that and if it is on the low side, then you probably still have time to take it back and change it for something more powerful. (might well be more expensive though)

Secondly, is the boiler vented properly? - If it's not, the (carbon monoxide?) sensors that are built into the boiler will only allow the unit to operate intermittently. 

Thirdly, check that vent again because what might look right can often be improved by raising the height of the vent or if it has a venting grill, perhaps remove the fine mesh filter to allow it to breath easier.

Fourthly, a popular quick fix is to remove or move the sensors so they're less sensitive............ this is NOT a good idea, especially if the boiler is actually in the living accommodation so be careful of that one.


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## canoeman

or just fit an electric shower in bathroom


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## BodgieMcBodge

Mattskii said:


> Sorry, missed this.
> 
> It is a new gas boiler, a Neckar WN10KB direct to the taps. One problem is the long run the pipe makes through the roof!!! It needs insulating. But it it not hot in the kitchen either and that is 6 inches from the boiler!! The only way we can get it really hot is by turning the tap down to a trickle. You have to keep turning it up and balancing it against the gas turning off!! Having a shower in this cold weather is quite an art! lol It is made worse by the cold water supply running outdoors uninsulated. So much to be done. I was hoping someone might know a quick fix where I could adjust something in the boiler to make it hotter. Worth a try! lol
> 
> Will certainly have solar fitted by next winter any way.




That's a 17kW German boiler (maybe not made in Germany so I can't get the full spec) and should be able to give hot water over a range of flows and easily enough for a shower. It's rated as max 17.4 kW max flow 10 l/min and 87 % efficient so, if working withing spec (doing maths from memory) will heat 5 l/min water up by 40 C so maybe from cold water 10 C to give hot water 50 C. Electric shower are usually 9.5kW or less to keep under an electrical power limit but sometimes 10.5kW and a few 14kW which are all less than your boiler. There is a temperature sensor in your boiler to keep the output water temp the same for different flow rates (by modulation) till the maximum 17.4 Kw is being used only then should the hot water temp drop. 

First things to check if it's a new installation not heating to the maximum 17.4Kw are the gas regulator and low pressure pipe work-- is the regulator rated for the maximum gas flow needed and is pipework somehow too restrictive for the gas flow needed. On the installation sheet there should be some numbers for the gas pressure at the boiler for different flow rates. 

Do you have a water pressure regulator on the cold water inlet side?


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## Mattskii

I need to may changes to the whole setup. I got a new regulator to the right PSI but don't know anything about the flow. I have misplaced the manual which came with the boiler temporarily. Also, in a week or three the roof over the kitchen is being renewed so I will have the flue redone then properly, as at the moment it is choked by not exiting the roof space properly. 

OK, thanks everyone. I know what is needed, no shortcuts huh?! lol


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## canoeman

No any improvements should be planed so you initially do what you can afford or is practical but take long term view, so you can add or refine as you go on and if roof is being replaced them a priority should be including insulation


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## BodgieMcBodge

Mattskii said:


> I need to may changes to the whole setup. I got a new regulator to the right PSI but don't know anything about the flow. I have misplaced the manual which came with the boiler temporarily. Also, in a week or three the roof over the kitchen is being renewed so I will have the flue redone then properly, as at the moment it is choked by not exiting the roof space properly.
> 
> OK, thanks everyone. I know what is needed, no shortcuts huh?! lol




Hi,

You may have just fitted a C3H8 37mb low pressure regulator which does not have flow capacity for your boiler when it needs to produce 17.4kW so is restricting it. A common C3H8 regulator is for smaller boiling rings and patio heaters with up to a 9kw rating.


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## Mattskii

BodgieMcBodge said:


> Hi,
> 
> You may have just fitted a C3H8 37mb low pressure regulator which does not have flow capacity for your boiler when it needs to produce 17.4kW so is restricting it. A common C3H8 regulator is for smaller boiling rings and patio heaters with up to a 9kw rating.


Just found the box!

I had no idea such things were so complicated. I just though bung a regulator on it.... lol 

I have the Repsol "Quick on low pressure 634 Propano 37mbar 2 kg/h" 

Could you recommend an improvement? And where I might get one near to Castanheira de Perra? 

Thanks you for your help!


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## travelling-man

Each gas company has a different valve so you probably need to go to wherever you bought the gas bottle but for what it's worth, there's a Repsolgas supplier in CdP. - Take the turning right that's more or less opposite the post office, then take the next right and it's the little agricultural shop on the right with a big roller shutter door.


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## Centralbound

As stated, you have a bunch of problems. First thing I'd say is get some clear advice on whether you can safely up the gas supply pressure to your specific boiler because that is a biggie. I would find a UK supplier for your brand and phone them, it will be faster and easier.

Hats off for the maths earlier, I won't attempt to add other than the input v output on temperatures is not linear. Water in at 10 degrees is one thing, 6 degrees is quite another. I have a cheapish local 11lt boiler and it's fine nearly all the time but struggles with really cold days and towards the end of the life of the bottle, e vida say plumbers...

Short term, protect the CW input that is outside so the pipe does not freeze. Lag any pipes you can get to in the loft because it's so cheap to do and might give you a degree or two. Shower mid afternoon. Make an offering!

Going on, insulate like mad. It pays back. If you are having solar plumbing done, maybe move the boiler closer to the bathroom if poss.


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## canoeman

UK regulations *might* be different to Portugal so crazy to ask there for advice, any gas installation here should like UK *be fitted and approved by a Registered fitter*


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## Mattskii

I think the first thing I need to do it wait to get an answer from @BodgieMcBodge regards the regulator. If I have one which is only rated to permit enough gas through for the 9kw appliances then my boiler will not be getting enough gas to perform to it's maximum ability. I will get on with pipe lagging at the same time, every little helps.


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## BodgieMcBodge

Hi, Because I was in Lunns (Aldershot) earlier today I asked them about the spec of your boiler but, unfortunately, they don't have a Bosch/Junkers listing so possibly not sold in the UK. There should be no need to up the C3H8 gas pressure from standard 37mb and most propane gas bottle regulators are set to this and non adjustable. Your regulator spec would seem ok with a max flow rate of 2kg/h which is good for up to 20kW boiler, basic rule is 1 kg/h Butane/Propane for each 10kW burn (or 12kW with no losses). I would like to know the actual flow from regulator to burner jet, and other stuff, but this is beyond the scope of this interweb forum and I'm not back in PT for a couple of weeks.


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## Mattskii

Thank you everyone so much for all your help. I was hoping for a quick fix just to get us through this winter, but no worries! We are managing as it is, just!!

But thanks to all the good advice here, I now have a firm plan for the upgrades. 

Cheers peeps!


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## baldilocks

Do you have aerators on your taps or other filters in the lines (such as at the entry to thermostatics controls for showers? If so, makes sure they are clear. Although we have a water softener we still get fair quantities of scale in quite large lumps that come off the inside of the heating coils in the boiler and that can reduce flows quite considerably. In summer when using the solar panel, we get hardly any.


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## canoeman

Our solar panels heat storage by coil and contain antifreeze, luckily we also live in a soft water area so limescale is not a problem


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## BodgieMcBodge

baldilocks said:


> Do you have aerators on your taps or other filters in the lines (such as at the entry to thermostatics controls for showers? If so, makes sure they are clear. Although we have a water softener we still get fair quantities of scale in quite large lumps that come off the inside of the heating coils in the boiler and that can reduce flows quite considerably. In summer when using the solar panel, we get hardly any.


Shirley that reduces the water flow = hotter water as it spends more time being heated in the boiler?


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## DREAMWEAVER1

BodgieMcBodge said:


> Shirley that reduces the water flow = hotter water as it spends more time being heated in the boiler?


........and stop calling me "Shirley"!!!!! 



Another comment,don't start "messing about" with your newish boiler you will In validate any guarantee,best of luck,especially in the present "chill"



David


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## canoeman

maybe mistype surely!!!!!!!!!


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## baldilocks

canoeman said:


> maybe mistype surely!!!!!!!!!


shirley not- Watched it again the other evening for effortless viewing.


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## Mattskii

There must be something wrong here. 

We just got to the end of another tank!!! That's 10 days to empty it. 

We don't shower every day, we don't cook loads all the time, we don't even wash up every day (Lazy hippies!lol) 

There is no smell of gas anywhere in the house or gas tank enclosure. But 1 of two things must be occurring. Either there is a leak somewhere too slow to notice, or the tanks are being sold less than full! 

Going to get a new regulator and tank from a different shop tomorrow, see if that helps at all. 

11KG or propane in in 10 days. No way!!! We hardly use it!


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## travelling-man

Is the bottle inside or outside.......I don't know the technicalities but have noticed that if it's particularly cold where the bottle is stored, the gas isn't able to produce the same pressure as when it's warmer such as in the summer......... I don't think it'll make a helluva difference but it will make a noticeable difference.


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## travelling-man

Matt

A few links for you:

Frequently Asked Questions about Propane Gas, Heaters, Fireplaces in Northeast Pa | Modern Gas Sales, Inc. 

Adventures In Stoving: What's the Best Brand of Gas for Cold Weather? 

Abnormally High Propane Usage - Using Too Much Gas


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## Mattskii

travelling-man said:


> Matt
> 
> A few links for you:
> 
> Frequently Asked Questions about Propane Gas, Heaters, Fireplaces in Northeast Pa | Modern Gas Sales, Inc.
> 
> Adventures In Stoving: What's the Best Brand of Gas for Cold Weather?
> 
> Abnormally High Propane Usage - Using Too Much Gas


Thanks for the info. Interesting. 

It doesn't explain our usage though as we don't heat the house. Just a bit of cooking and the occasional shower! lol


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## travelling-man

We usually get about 3 weeks out of an 11 kg bottle that supplies hot water only (not cooking) and the recent cold spell knocked that down to about 2 1/2 weeks or maybe slightly less....... I'll try the old bottle if it warms up and see if I can squeeze a further 2 or 3 days use out of it.


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## Mattskii

travelling-man said:


> Matt
> 
> A few links for you:
> 
> Frequently Asked Questions about Propane Gas, Heaters, Fireplaces in Northeast Pa | Modern Gas Sales, Inc.
> 
> Adventures In Stoving: What's the Best Brand of Gas for Cold Weather?
> 
> Abnormally High Propane Usage - Using Too Much Gas


Thanks for the info. Interesting. 

It doesn't explain our usage though as we don't heat the house. Just a bit of cooking and the occasional shower! lol


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## travelling-man

I think you're missing my point. It sounds like you don't have increased usage but rather decreased bottle pressure due to the cold weather. If you have a spare bottle to use now, keep the one that appears to be empty and then reconnect it on a warmer day and you'll probably get a bit more use out of it because the pressure will have increased due to the warmer temperature.


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## Mattskii

travelling-man said:


> Matt
> 
> A few links for you:
> 
> Frequently Asked Questions about Propane Gas, Heaters, Fireplaces in Northeast Pa | Modern Gas Sales, Inc.
> 
> Adventures In Stoving: What's the Best Brand of Gas for Cold Weather?
> 
> Abnormally High Propane Usage - Using Too Much Gas





travelling-man said:


> I think you're missing my point. It sounds like you don't have increased usage but rather decreased bottle pressure due to the cold weather. If you have a spare bottle to use now, keep the one that appears to be empty and then reconnect it on a warmer day and you'll probably get a bit more use out of it because the pressure will have increased due to the warmer temperature.


I don't believe this is the problem.... The bottle is empty. Drained. Propane boils at -42C, it must be over 5C in our gas cupboard, I can't see this having any major effect on the pressure. If it were butane, yes it would be a problem, which is why we switched to propane. And the difference is very noticeable. 

But this propane tank, when you pick it up and shake it - is empty as they get. 

I will hang to to the bottle though and try what you suggest.

In the mean time, a new bottle and new regulator from a new supplier, to see if there is any difference.


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## DREAMWEAVER1

Mattskii said:


> I don't believe this is the problem.... The bottle is empty. Drained. Propane boils at -42C, it must be over 5C in our gas cupboard, I can't see this having any major effect on the pressure. If it were butane, yes it would be a problem, which is why we switched to propane. And the difference is very noticeable.
> 
> But this propane tank, when you pick it up and shake it - is empty as they get.
> 
> I will hang to to the bottle though and try what you suggest.
> 
> In the mean time, a new bottle and new regulator from a new supplier, to see if there is any difference.



As an AC engineer back in the UK,during the cold winter months,if I had to recharge an AC system and I was low on R22 gas,I used to immerse the gas bottle in a large container,bucket or ? half full of very hot water,that used to increase the output pressure,enough to recharge the system.
You may find by treating your "empty" bottle the same way,you could get some more out of it,just a thought.

David


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## canoeman

Have you thought of a simple measure like insulating bottle?

Whatever you do bottled gas is still a very inefficient way of getting adequate hot water


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## BodgieMcBodge

Hi,

True that propane has a reduced vapour pressure with respect to temperature but, as per attachment, you are not down to those temperatures yet. Particularly if you have a small volume of liquid propane in a big cylinder then you may get icing on the outside because the liquid turning to gas cools by "latent heat of evaporation", but even this would not get to -40C, and insulation will prevent the gas bottle reaching ambient temperature as it cools on the inside. If you suspect a leak then turn off any appliances so no gas flows and try the bubble mixture on the pipes and any joints, remember some washing up liquid will cause metal corrosion so always wash the bubble mix off with clean water afterwards - tis why a product called Sn**p is used by gas engineers. The other method of checking is to weigh the cylinder and monitor the weight over time, it should have weight of the empty cylinder stamped on it so you will know when it is empty and if it has a complete fill to start with.


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## baldilocks

canoeman said:


> Whatever you do bottled gas is still a very inefficient way of getting adequate hot water


It works very well for us when the season is unsuitable for using a solar panel. We are on *butane* and live at over 700 metres so tend be colder but we have never had the problem of pressure dropping off in winter. We use our hot water to feed two bathrooms (= 3 showers per day). We also cook with gas from the same bottle. Life expectancy is two - three weeks in winter but 5 - 6 weeks in summer when we are using the panel for hot water.

Have you tried lifting the bottles and seeing if you can swish the liquid around? If you can still hear/feel the liquid sloshing around, then it isn't empty.

I used to use propane bottles (the tall ones) in Wales and even used them for central heating.

As for using bottled gas for heating hot water, it IS an efficient way of heating hot water if you are using an instantaneous water heater since you only heat the water you are using versus using an immersion heater keeping a tankful of water hot when you aren't using it but you do have to make sure that your pipe-runs are short to minimise dead-legging..


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## Sharoncf

Canoeman can I ask what is the most efficient way for hot water, you say that gas is not the most efficient and at present we are looking into this


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## robc

Sharon
We use solar water heating with a water Battery for nighttime.
So far so good........apart from the price for the installation there has been no energy costs worth noting.
Happy Days

Rob


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## Sharoncf

Rob do you mind giving me a ballpark figure fir installation cost, thanks for your answer


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## canoeman

Sharoncf said:


> Canoeman can I ask what is the most efficient way for hot water, you say that gas is not the most efficient and at present we are looking into this


Solar should your first choice with with an internal storage tank of sufficient capacity for your usage, any other heat source should then be linked into this tank so everything works in conjunction, doesn't need to be all done in one go but allowing to add one sensible


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## Sharoncf

Thanks Canoeman and Rob


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## canoeman

A good system i.e. panels, controls, multi inlet water storage tank, installtion shouldn't be more than 3,800 but it depends on number of panel's needed


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## baldilocks

canoeman said:


> A good system i.e. panels, controls, multi inlet water storage tank, installtion shouldn't be more than 3,800 but it depends on number of panel's needed


But how does that cope in the winter when the sun hours are reduced and the intensity is lower? Our solar panel is only really usable from April to October.


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## canoeman

WE have evacuated tubes that are more efficient than panels plus basically an antifreeze fluid rather than water, no there not sufficient during winter months but still do supply some hot water, it's why we have our 3 heating elements all linked so regardless of weather we always have hot water


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## Mattskii

OK, we are going to bite the bullet on solar hot water! 

Can someone recommend a trustable supplier? 

I need a solar hot water thingy, tank, and some sort of switch to divert the water to the boiler if the water is below a certain temperature. Is this possible?


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## canoeman

Mattskii said:


> OK, we are going to bite the bullet on solar hot water!
> 
> Can someone recommend a trustable supplier?
> 
> I need a solar hot water thingy, tank, and some sort of switch to divert the water to the boiler if the water is below a certain temperature. Is this possible?


Yes, it's vital to save money to plan installation correctly
It works the other way round storage stores hot water from panels in winter then if tank temperature drops the boiler or other heat sources click in to heat tank

Your needs at least 2 indirect coils 1 to solar panels 2 to other heat source

Personally you need to look at your entire heating system and your future requiremnts now you have a taste of Portugal's winters


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## baldilocks

With ours, the system (cost inc. installation approx. 1200€) only uses the solar panel. The tank has no other inputs so no energy usage keeping tank hot. We just operate a change-over valve to boiler when necessary and back to solar when warm enough and the supply from the boiler or solar goes direct to where needed (basin and shower in each of two bathrooms plus the sink in the kitchen).


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## robc

canoeman said:


> Yes, it's vital to save money to plan installation correctly
> It works the other way round storage stores hot water from panels in winter then if tank temperature drops the boiler or other heat sources click in to heat tank
> 
> Your needs at least 2 indirect coils 1 to solar panels 2 to other heat source
> 
> Personally you need to look at your entire heating system and your future requiremnts now you have a taste of Portugal's winters


I agree entirely with CM´s last comment. We made a mistake with the initial installation and it has probably cost us more to rectify later as opposed to doing it right first time.
We are now using a qualified mechanical engineer who specialises in heating systems, and he has designed a complete modular system that we are currently working through, each stage can be fully costed before implementing and allows us to future proof.

I am told that most large plumbing merchants have a qualified engineer "tucked away" somewhere, and in our case we got his services for free as we bought there and continue to buy all the kit from them.

HTH

Rob


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## BodgieMcBodge

Mattskii said:


> OK, we are going to bite the bullet on solar hot water!
> 
> Can someone recommend a trustable supplier?
> 
> I need a solar hot water thingy, tank, and some sort of switch to divert the water to the boiler if the water is below a certain temperature. Is this possible?


There are as many permutations of direct and indirect heating with various degrees of complexity. Simplest would be directly heating the hot water in a solar panel with a thermosyphon tank and using a gas boiler to supplement if the water is not hot enough at the tap, this has the advantage of only heating the water you use so is naturally more efficient More complex to heat indirectly where the liquid in the solar panel and the hot water for consumption both pass through a heat exchanger but do not mix, to supplement when the tank of water is not hot enough using electricity/gas/oil/wood but this is more complex and less efficient as it runs continuously to keep a complete tank of hot water even when no-one is using any. There are various websites which I cannot mention where you can yot in your requirements and get various different solutions this.


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## Mattskii

Thanks everyone.

FTR I just got back from Avalar where I exchanged a tank and regulator from Galp for a green BP tank and regulator. This cost me €22.

When exchanging an empty for a full Galp tank at my local village cafe they charged me €33.

So driving the extra mileage is well worth the savings! 

Lets see how long this one lasts!!!

Thanks everyone for the advise on the solar. I want a relatively straight forward solution, something like @Baldilocks describes above. Even during the winter we have had a few weeks of full on sunshine here which would have given us good hot water without having to worry about the gas at all.


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## canoeman

Mattskii said:


> Thanks everyone.
> 
> FTR I just got back from Avalar where I exchanged a tank and regulator from Galp for a green BP tank and regulator. This cost me €22.
> 
> When exchanging an empty for a full Galp tank at my local village cafe they charged me €33.
> 
> So driving the extra mileage is well worth the savings!
> 
> Lets see how long this one lasts!!!
> 
> Thanks everyone for the advise on the solar. I want a relatively straight forward solution, something like @Baldilocks describes above. Even during the winter we have had a few weeks of full on sunshine here which would have given us good hot water without having to worry about the gas at all.


33€ is way over the top for Galp gas

Don't overestimate hot water you will get, read Rodc input


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## Mattskii

*Fascinating Update!!*

BP Propain! The green tanks. Made all the difference!!

I know some might be sceptical, I hardly believe it myself. But here is the deal:

I swapped out the GALP tank and regulator for a BP tank and regulator. 

We now have lashings of hot water in the shower, in fact I had to add a little cold last shower as it was a bit too hot! 

We have also burned food in the oven, as we are used to it working slowly. Pizza, and baked potatoes, both totally overcooked almost frazzled, when given the same cooking time as with the GALP gas. 

I can't explain why it is different, but it is. It has solved this entire problem!


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## baldilocks

Mattskii said:


> BP Propain! The green tanks. Made all the difference!!
> 
> I know some might be sceptical, I hardly believe it myself. But here is the deal:
> 
> I swapped out the GALP tank and regulator for a BP tank and regulator.
> 
> We now have lashings of hot water in the shower, in fact I had to add a little cold last shower as it was a bit too hot!
> 
> We have also burned food in the oven, as we are used to it working slowly. Pizza, and baked potatoes, both totally overcooked almost frazzled, when given the same cooking time as with the GALP gas.
> 
> I can't explain why it is different, but it is. It has solved this entire problem!


It does sound very much as though the one you had from Galp was only a Butane and could not maintain the pressure in the cold.


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## BodgieMcBodge

mattskii said:


> bp propain! The green tanks. Made all the difference!!
> 
> I know some might be sceptical, i hardly believe it myself. But here is the deal:
> 
> I swapped out the galp tank and regulator for a bp tank and regulator.
> 
> We now have lashings of hot water in the shower, in fact i had to add a little cold last shower as it was a bit too hot!
> 
> We have also burned food in the oven, as we are used to it working slowly. Pizza, and baked potatoes, both totally overcooked almost frazzled, when given the same cooking time as with the galp gas.
> 
> I can't explain why it is different, but it is. It has solved this entire problem!


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## Mattskii

baldilocks said:


> It does sound very much as though the one you had from Galp was only a Butane and could not maintain the pressure in the cold.



Unless they use butane in their mix, no - it was 100% a propane tank I had from them, in fact we went through 2, drained them to the bottom! 

It will be interesting to see how the BP tank lasts. We emptied the last one from GALP in 11 days. 

My suspicion is a faulty regulator. I can't see GALP mucking about with short filled tanks or dodgy gas mixtures. Don't know.


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