# Anti Seize Compound



## Maxx62 (Dec 31, 2013)

Does anyone know where I can purchase anti-seize compound here in the Philippines? 
I'm working on an old Kia Pride, with a Mazda B3 motor, and I'd like to be able to use some anti-seize compound on the threads before I put them back into the aluminum heads. I know that that a lot of people say that using such a compound is unnecessary (I agree if it were a cast iron head) but I've seen a few older Toyota trucks which could not have their plugs removed, due to galling caused by overheating. I've tried asking at a few autoshops and hardware stores, but no one seems to know anything about the product I'm searching for.


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## pac (Jul 27, 2013)

Silver stuff, like toothpaste. Put a dab on ur fingers and rub, aluminum silver looking grease will cover ur fingers for days. Never-Sieze was the biggest brand name. NAPA carries as "Anti-Sieze Lubricant" part 765-1674. Got any friends in the military? That is a standard item in the machine shop. Stuff lasts forever, I have an 8 oz bottle not even half empty and have built probably 2 dozen motors using the same jar.

Try different spellings of the same name, on Amazon right now an 8 oz bottle of "Never Seez" is $13 US. I think the original name was patented but now hard to find as Never-Sieze.

You are right on mixing metals, guys with boats know this esp. well, but alum thread plugs in iron blocks or any similar mix of metals you want the layer of anti-corrosion between the two. My favorite trick using the silver 'toothpaste' is to put a thin coat on both sides of any new gaskets, you can re-use the same gasket over and over! Without the silver stuff the gasket sticks to one side of the case or the other and you have to paint scrape the remnants off. Just the savings on gaskets will pay for the silver stuff on the first few jobs and areas of the engine you have to get into often.

I checked the MILSPECs on it and they call it anti-sieze. Try different names. Look for everything with Permatex brand they were the biggest distributors globally.


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## Maxx62 (Dec 31, 2013)

pac said:


> Silver stuff, like toothpaste. Put a dab on ur fingers and rub, aluminum silver looking grease will cover ur fingers for days. Never-Sieze was the biggest brand name. NAPA carries as "Anti-Sieze Lubricant" part 765-1674. Got any friends in the military? That is a standard item in the machine shop. Stuff lasts forever, I have an 8 oz bottle not even half empty and have built probably 2 dozen motors using the same jar.
> 
> Try different spellings of the same name, on Amazon right now an 8 oz bottle of "Never Seez" is $13 US. I think the original name was patented but now hard to find as Never-Sieze.
> 
> ...


Thanks Pac. I have a son at Perris Island in South Carolina, but I don't know if he'll be able to get this stuff for me from his base or not. Probably the best thing to do I guess is to ask one of my relatives back in the states to send it to me, but then it might take a month or so to get here. I'm surprised that no one seems to carry it here, and when I asked a mechanic at Shell about it, he said he knew what it was, but didn't know where to get it. He suggested that I put a tiny tab of high temp bearing grease on the plug threads, but I don't know if that is such a good idea, and I'm wondering if such a grease would inhibit the electrical contact between the plug and cylinder head? The closest I've come to so far is a hardware store here in Cebu called Belmont Hardware. One of the employees there found it their computer system, but he said that they no longer stock it in the store, because it was such a slow mover. He said he could order it for me, but I would have to buy in advance for an entire case. No thanks, I don't need it that bad. Well, I find it hard to believe that all the mechanics here are simply putting plugs back in without using some of this stuff on the threads first? It must be around here somewhere, I guess it's just a matter of asking the right people. If not, I guess I have to ask someone in California to send it to me.


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## pac (Jul 27, 2013)

Maxx62, for the folks that are doing regular maintenance on their motors it shouldn't be too many months in between changing plugs and filters and such. It's when moisture and/or long duration of metal-to-metal contact that the real damage gets done, like when folks let the equipment sit too long. Personally I take a lot of pride on motors that last near forever, and I wouldn't build a motor without the stuff.

Still smile when I work on an old motor (like a flathead from the 50's) and find studs and connectors carefully painted in never-sieze, i think that stuff could live in salt water for 50 years and it has been around that long already! Even the old bolts come out with a slight *squeak* then almost hand thread them out.

The "axle grease" theory only helps to thread a new plug in, but I've also seen it make it easy for kids to cross-thread a plug and ruin a block. Without the silver stuff, I'd suggest very thin oil (40W or WD40) and always start the plugs by hand. If you are going to keep your project Mazda and drive it regularly, it shouldn't be a problem for 2-3 years at least. For long term corrosion help, the grease is worthless since it really is just thick oil, at the temps the motor runs even grease will melt and end up in your cylinder, more likely to foul a plug than help with future plug removal. 

Bearing grease *initially* doesn't hurt electrical connectivity, there will be plenty of contact between the threads and the block, when torqued down the entire circumference of the plug's squish washer should be connecting the plug and the block anyway (unless you painted the block and didn't tape off the plug hole? I've seen that!) but the grease can become an enemy to electrical connections over time. I used to grease my battery terminals and they looked nice on the outside but discovered that voltage going thru grease crystalizes the stuff...turns it into a dry, pinkish powder that is like a glass insulator! I'd keep it away from the plug threads.

Did find it interesting that it now shows up in searches more as a "copper" type of lube (even in your photo of the white Permatex bottle). Always thought that the "copper" label was a British term (other than my Irish cousins back east that loved to tease the local PD with that same term) but now seems more prevalent worldwide for this type of lube. Don't quit on your search, the money and man hours in rebuilding anything worthwhile is *not* worth shaving a few pennies or quitting the search early. Heck, I've got half my 8 oz bottle left and would gladly send you a couple oz thru the mail but if anything was gonna look like explosives or suspicious? It would be sending a few ounces of never-sieze via the US post office <g>. 

I'd be glad to, but no thanks, I've already got enuff friends on alert as it is 

pac


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## Maxx62 (Dec 31, 2013)

pac said:


> Maxx62, for the folks that are doing regular maintenance on their motors it shouldn't be too many months in between changing plugs and filters and such. It's when moisture and/or long duration of metal-to-metal contact that the real damage gets done, like when folks let the equipment sit too long. Personally I take a lot of pride on motors that last near forever, and I wouldn't build a motor without the stuff.
> 
> Still smile when I work on an old motor (like a flathead from the 50's) and find studs and connectors carefully painted in never-sieze, i think that stuff could live in salt water for 50 years and it has been around that long already! Even the old bolts come out with a slight *squeak* then almost hand thread them out.
> 
> ...


Hi Pac, I really appreciate the offer to send me the anti-seize compound, but I think you're right, if it's an open bottle, it will most likely get taken by customs officials, never to be seen again. 

I went a head and changed out the plugs, even though I couldn't find any anti-seize compound, and I put the new ones back in dry, but I was very careful to avoid any over torquing, or cross threading. You're right, I shouldn't have to change these things again for a long time, so that gives me plenty of time to find some compound before my next plug change. 

I picked up this car dirt cheap, because it is equipped with a carburetor, and the previous owner took it to several different mechanics, but each time the got it back it would run a little bit worse than the time before. 

There used to be a water line running up to the choke for heat assistance, but the tube rusted out, so a "mechanic" simply tied it open with a piece of wire, and charged them 200 Pesos. Next, someone else took the air horn off the caruberator, and as a result, the accelerator pump was no longer working.

So that created a situation in which the car couldn't get a rich enough mixture to start, so they used to carry a bottle of gasoline inside the car, and when they came out of the shopping mall, they used to pour a few ounces of raw gas down the throat of the carb to get it started. (Seriously, a mechanic told them it was okay to do this.)

Well, the car suffered from a continuous lean condition for many years, but as a result it didn't generate any horse power, and it didn't wear out the motor. 

I rebuilt the carb (very difficult finding a rebuild kit with a float) and completely removed what was left of the choke. Now you have to pump the throttle three or four times to give it a rich mixture, and then once it starts you need to hold it at a fast idle with your foot for about 45 seconds, but then for the rest of the day it runs fine. 

Who needs a choke on their carburetor, this is the Philippines!


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## pac (Jul 27, 2013)

<g


Maxx62 said:


> Hi Pac, I really appreciate the offer to send me the anti-seize compound, but I think you're right, if it's an open bottle, it will most likely get taken by customs officials, never to be seen again.
> 
> I went a head and changed out the plugs, even though I couldn't find any anti-seize compound, and I put the new ones back in dry, but I was very careful to avoid any over torquing, or cross threading. You're right, I shouldn't have to change these things again for a long time, so that gives me plenty of time to find some compound before my next plug change.
> 
> ...


Maxx62--

Had to laugh about the raw gas in the carb. Old time mechanic taught me the trick about "starting fluid". With bad ignitions, bad carbs, bad motors, that guy could start almost any motor in anything with his magic can of starter fluid! Especially with farm equipment you couldn't drive to the shop, getting it running right there in the field was worth money to any farmer! Remember that smell?

And about half the motors just needed to start and run for awhile, get the fresh gas into everything, and they ran fine without touching anything else. He made a fortune out of getting old vehicles to run. His other moneymaking trick? Removing the thermostat (to fix overheating). Friendly old guy, knew his stuff, but wasn't shy about making money off his experience.

Good job on rebuilding the carb, when you pump the throttle the accelerator jets should shoot a visible stream like a squirt gun on a cold motor or turns to haze/vapor on a hot motor when you are looking into the carb. You're right if your jets are working you don't need a choke, just a few pumps on the pedal.

I used to rebuild carbs, but too many small parts and took too long anway. After Carter started selling rebuilt carbs for about half what it would cost me to rebuild them by hand, I never rebuilt another one, but remembered starting fluid first!

pac


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## Maxx62 (Dec 31, 2013)

pac said:


> <g
> 
> Maxx62--
> 
> ...


Well, I figure it was just a matter of time before someone spilled gasoline all over the motor, and started a fire, and that would be the end of the car. I don't mind starting my lawn mower that way, but man, you're sure asking for trouble by starting your car that way, several times a day. Also, I'm not really a professional mechanic, but I do enjoy turning wrenches on things once in a while. One thing you have to remember with the rebuilt carbs, you may still have to open up the airhorn and set the float to the correct level for your car, even though its a brand new carb off the shelf. I do somewhat okay with mechanical things, but I tend to over think household electricity, and too confuse myself.


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