# Moving to Oaxaca City



## MissMagnolia

Anyone here in Oaxaca City or moving there soon. Lets talk and help each other. I am slated to be there June 1, 2013. I have never been there but spent over a year in Costa Rica and Panama so I enjoy expat life and speak a little spanish. I currently live in TX. I work for myself on the internet so I will not need to find a job. Thank you in advance for any info. Also I love to danceand ride horses and have house parties with about 8 to 10 people once a month.
MissMagnolia!!!


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## ptrichmondmike

I hope you love Oaxaca as much as I did, for a month, many years ago. It was my favorite Mexican city, and I may still end up there, in retirement. The people of Oaxaca were the loveliest and friendliest I've met in Mexico, and that's saying a lot. I hope that's still true. Buena suerte!


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## Isla Verde

MissMagnolia said:


> Anyone here in Oaxaca City or moving there soon. Lets talk and help each other. I am slated to be there June 1, 2013. I have never been there but spent over a year in Costa Rica and Panama so I enjoy expat life and speak a little spanish. I currently live in TX. I work for myself on the internet so I will not need to find a job. Thank you in advance for any info. Also I love to danceand ride horses and have house parties with about 8 to 10 people once a month.
> MissMagnolia!!!


When I returned to Mexico for good, if I hadn't had friends and professional contacts in Mexico City, I would probably have moved to Oaxaca City, one of my favorite places in the República. You are very lucky to be moving there! If you've never been there, why have you chosen this city to be your next home?


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## Longford

You're moving to a city you've never seen or experienced life in before? Odd. Best of luck.


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## ptrichmondmike

Longford said:


> You're moving to a city you've never seen or experienced life in before? Odd. Best of luck.


Perhaps, but it's hard to go wrong with Oaxaca. It has just about everything that's wonderful about Mexico summed up in one place -- and if you want lots of expats, they are there. But, I admit, that impression was formed more than 30 years ago, and I haven't been back.

It would be great to hear some recent experience.


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## TundraGreen

Longford said:


> You're moving to a city you've never seen or experienced life in before? Odd. Best of luck.


It's not that uncommon. I have moved to 6 places in three countries sight unseen. The idea that you select where you move is a retirement luxury. Often people go where their work takes them.


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## GARYJ65

I love Oaxaca, it's people, the food, the only 2 things I dislike: very sismic area and that it is not developing as fast as many other cities, (states) in Mexico


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## Isla Verde

GARYJ65 said:


> I love Oaxaca, it's people, the food, the only 2 things I dislike: very sismic area and that it is not developing as fast as many other cities, (states) in Mexico


Development can be a mixed blessing. Sometimes it ends up destroying the very things that make a place unique.


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## Isla Verde

TundraGreen said:


> It's not that uncommon. I have moved to 6 places in three countries sight unseen. The idea that you select where you move is a retirement luxury. Often people go where their work takes them.


However, the OP mentioned that she works for herself online, so that isn't the case in this situation.


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## joaquinx

GARYJ65 said:


> I love Oaxaca, it's people, the food, the only 2 things I dislike: very sismic area and that it is not developing as fast as many other cities, (states) in Mexico


Getting caught in a traffic jam at Cinco Señores at 2:00pm on a very hot day.


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## GARYJ65

My comment about development was regarding the Human development index IDH, which is based on 3 parameters: long and healthy life, education and dignifying life level.
I was not talking about shopping malls, traffic, pollution, etc.
Oaxaca is in 31 st place out of 32 in Mexico.


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## Isla Verde

GARYJ65 said:


> My comment about development was regarding the Human development index IDH, which is based on 3 parameters: long and healthy life, education and dignifying life level.
> I was not talking about shopping malls, traffic, pollution, etc.
> Oaxaca is in 31 st place out of 32 in Mexico.


Thanks for the clarification. Could you provide a link to your assertion that Oaxaca (is that the entire state or just the city?) ranks nearly at the bottom of the IDH?


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## TundraGreen

Isla Verde said:


> However, the OP mentioned that she works for herself online, so that isn't the case in this situation.


True, but there can be other reasons that motivate a person to move. My point was just that it is not uncommon to move to a place you know little about before the move.


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## GARYJ65

Isla Verde said:


> Thanks for the clarification. Could you provide a link to your assertion that Oaxaca (is that the entire state or just the city?) ranks nearly at the bottom of the IDH?


Here you are

Anexo:Entidades federativas de México por IDH - Wikipedia, la enciclopedia libre


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## Isla Verde

GARYJ65 said:


> Here you are
> 
> Anexo:Entidades federativas de México por IDH - Wikipedia, la enciclopedia libre


Well, that is the IDH for 2010. I wonder if there's been any change in the ranking since then


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## GARYJ65

Isla Verde said:


> Well, that is the IDH for 2010. I wonder if there's been any change in the ranking since then


Nope
Oaxaca is just about the same, I mean, the numbers are 2010, not 1910


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## johnmex

Isla Verde said:


> Well, that is the IDH for 2010. I wonder if there's been any change in the ranking since then


Oaxaca has probably dropped to 32nd....


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## Quetza

Oaxaca is one of the states where the segregation of the indigenous people, their traditions and way of life or that of the people who refuse to cooperate with the economic and social model that's generalized across the country shows more clearly.

It's sadly a state where life level is really unequal, a lot of that stems from a corrupt and inefficient goverment that prefers to battle against their people to build and concesion foreign brands and companys than driving initiatives for the development of the state from the inside out.

That's why some people in other parts of the country view the Oaxaca population as violent or backwards. Why wouldn't they want "progress" to reach them? Many don't understand that acts such as forcing companys like Wal-Mart to close stores or defending themselves against the destruction of their way of life is necesary for them. And that it should be seen as necessary for more people considering how Wal-Mart bribed their way into Teotihuacan, an archeological place! (not in Oaxca, but still a worrying example)

But I've been in various places in Oaxaca a lot of times and the people, while understandably closed off in some areas, is really warm and welcoming. And really, life in the main cities and tourist areas is not that different so there's variety for everyone. I'd love to move there for a while at some point because the state is wonderful in so many ways. 

Sorry for the rambling and welcome MissMagnolia! You have chosen a beautiful place to live in :3


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## Hound Dog

Oaxaca City was one of a few cities we had on our agenda in 2005 when we were looking for a way to escape the Lake Chapala area where we had lived since 2001 as retirees. We,after much travel to many places in various parts of Mexico, narrowed our selection down to Oaxaca City and surroundings, Mérida and San Cristóbal de Las Casas, Chiapas. Mérida was fun but we found the dreadful hot and humid climate unbearable. We loved the beautiful historic center of Oaxaca but finding a residential property there we liked and could afford was difficult to impossible and most of the rest of the city is, in our opinions an unpleasant, polluted, noisy, hectic, relentlessly frenetic and chaotic place with serious traffic anarchy and an inferior road and street infrastructure. That doesn´t mean we do not often travel there and stay with friends in the city and many other places in Oaxaca State but it was not right for us as a home base. Finally, we chose the historic center of colonial San Cristóbal , a much smaller city (about 130,000 people) with an endllessly fascinating cultural mix and beautiful historic architecture surrounded by the extraordinary beauty of the Chiapas Highlands. From the Chiapas Highlands, we often visit Oaxaca and the Yucatan Peninsula which are reasonably close by for travel adventures. 

We still live at Lake Chapala part of the year and in Chiapas part of the year as well. Variety keeps up the challenge. 

To each his/her own. Go for it.


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## GARYJ65

Hound Dog said:


> Oaxaca City was one of a few cities we had on our agenda in 2005 when we were looking for a way to escape the Lake Chapala area where we had lived since 2001 as retirees. We,after much travel to many places in various parts of Mexico, narrowed our selection down to Oaxaca City and surroundings, Mérida and San Cristóbal de Las Casas, Chiapas. Mérida was fun but we found the dreadful hot and humid climate unbearable. We loved the beautiful historic center of Oaxaca but finding a residential property there we liked and could afford was difficult to impossible and most of the rest of the city is, in our opinions an unpleasant, polluted, noisy, hectic, relentlessly frenetic and chaotic place with serious traffic anarchy and an inferior road and street infrastructure. That doesn´t mean we do not often travel there and stay with friends in the city and many other places in Oaxaca State but it was not right for us as a home base. Finally, we chose the historic center of colonial San Cristóbal , a much smaller city (about 130,000 people) with an endllessly fascinating cultural mix and beautiful historic architecture surrounded by the extraordinary beauty of the Chiapas Highlands. From the Chiapas Highlands, we often visit Oaxaca and the Yucatan Peninsula which are reasonably close by for travel adventures.
> 
> We still live at Lake Chapala part of the year and in Chiapas part of the year as well. Variety keeps up the challenge.
> 
> To each his/her own. Go for it.


I must withhold my full opinion on this post, all I can say is: if You do not have something nice to say, don't say anything


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## Quetza

GARYJ65 said:


> I must withhold my full opinion on this post, all I can say is: if You do not have something nice to say, don't say anything



In my opinion, all points of view are valid and should be respected even if they crash with our own. They add variety to the conversation as long as they are not expressed in an insulting or derogatory way which I doubt was Hound Dog's intention. 

Mexico is amazing but not everyone's experiences will be positive each and every time.


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## Isla Verde

Quetza said:


> In my opinion, all points of view are valid and should be respected even if they crash with our own. They add variety to the conversation as long as they are not expressed in an insulting or derogatory way which I doubt was Hound Dog's intention.
> 
> Mexico is amazing but not everyone's experiences will be positive each and every time.


I agree, Quetza. I think that Oaxaca is an amazing city, but I can also partially agree with Hound Dog's criticisms of the place.


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## conorkilleen

TundraGreen said:


> It's not that uncommon. I have moved to 6 places in three countries sight unseen. The idea that you select where you move is a retirement luxury. Often people go where their work takes them.


I had the luck to travel to each of the different areas in the world I have lived before I settled there. All for work. I would think that site unseen would make for much more interesting of an adventure! 

Oaxaca City is amazing. The historic districs is really cool. My wife has a sister that lives there and we visit 1 a year for 3-4 days then we head down to the coast where the rest of her family in Oaxaca is from.(2 weeks there) 

I contemplated buying a 2 story house only 3km from Monte Alban. 600,000 pesos. It had great views and very quite area. If I would have had that in cash I would be retired at the early age of 32 walking the ruins every day. Then I realized that was the Mezcal talking!!

Food? well its hard to go wrong with Mole, Iguana, Res, Cuche, pescado, y many many more specialties

Be sure to try the Roasted Crickets!


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## GARYJ65

conorkilleen said:


> I had the luck to travel to each of the different areas in the world I have lived before I settled there. All for work. I would think that site unseen would make for much more interesting of an adventure!
> 
> Oaxaca City is amazing. The historic districs is really cool. My wife has a sister that lives there and we visit 1 a year for 3-4 days then we head down to the coast where the rest of her family in Oaxaca is from.(2 weeks there)
> 
> I contemplated buying a 2 story house only 3km from Monte Alban. 600,000 pesos. It had great views and very quite area. If I would have had that in cash I would be retired at the early age of 32 walking the ruins every day. Then I realized that was the Mezcal talking!!
> 
> Food? well its hard to go wrong with Mole, Iguana, Res, Cuche, pescado, y many many more specialties
> 
> Be sure to try the Roasted Crickets!


Crickets are great! And they say that if You go to Oaxaca and eat them, You will return!
How about sopa de guía?


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## Isla Verde

GARYJ65 said:


> Crickets are great! And they say that if You go to Oaxaca and eat them, You will return!
> How about sopa de guía?


I've been back to Oaxaca many times, even without having eaten crickets. What is "sopa de guía", by the way?


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## GARYJ65

http://www.mexicodesconocido.com.mx/sopa-de-guias-con-chochoyotes.html


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## Longford

TundraGreen said:


> It's not that uncommon. I have moved to 6 places in three countries sight unseen. The idea that you select where you move is a retirement luxury. Often people go where their work takes them.


Apples to oranges comparison. Irrelevant.


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## Longford

ptrichmondmike said:


> Perhaps, but it's hard to go wrong with Oaxaca. It has just about everything that's wonderful about Mexico summed up in one place -- and if you want lots of expats, they are there. But, I admit, that impression was formed more than 30 years ago, and I haven't been back.
> 
> It would be great to hear some recent experience.


Since you haven't been to Oaxaca in decades, and you visited once for a vacation/extended visit ...I"ll only offer the comment that living someplace is vastly different than vacationing, and with such a lapse in time since your visit, I don't think I'd place much value on your comments if I were in the shoes of the OP here.


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## mickisue1

Since we don't know the age of the OP, and she's working, still, it may be that she's younger, and moves for adventure, rather than comfort.

One of the things I cherish about travel is that initial feeling of literally being a stranger to the place where I find myself. For me, I prefer to have acquired some familiarity with the place before I would consider living there. But there are many who do not.

The need for feeling comfortable before making a move seems to increase with age. Longford, you're showing yours!


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## joaquinx

Hound Dog said:


> We loved the beautiful historic center of Oaxaca but finding a residential property there we liked and could afford was difficult to impossible and most of the rest of the city is, in our opinions an unpleasant, polluted, noisy, hectic, relentlessly frenetic and chaotic place with serious traffic anarchy and an inferior road and street infrastructure.


In my many visits to Oaxaca, this is a faithful evaluation. Getting stuck at the intersection of Cinco Señores at 2pm on a hot day was horrid. Outside of the historic center, it is as Hound Dog describes.


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## vantexan

Sorry about bringing up an old post, but we've decided to move to Oaxaca by October. Anyone familiar with current living costs there? Thanks to everyone for their recommendations on places to live, but Oaxaca meets most of what I want, and my fiancée wants a mild climate with reasonably quick access to good beaches.


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## Isla Verde

vantexan said:


> Sorry about bringing up an old post, but we've decided to move to Oaxaca by October. Anyone familiar with current living costs there? Thanks to everyone for their recommendations on places to live, but Oaxaca meets most of what I want, and my fiancée wants a mild climate with reasonably quick access to good beaches.


I can't help you with information on the current cost of living in Oaxaca City, but I do want to congratulate on your choice of a new home! If I ever leave Mexico City, I will probably move there myself.


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## vantexan

Isla Verde said:


> I can't help you with information on the current cost of living in Oaxaca City, but I do want to congratulate on your choice of a new home! If I ever leave Mexico City, I will probably move there myself.


Thanks. If we were smart we'd wait awhile but corporate America makes the little bit of risk worth it.


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## Isla Verde

vantexan said:


> Thanks. If we were smart we'd wait awhile but corporate America makes the little bit of risk worth it.


Be sure to let us know how the move goes. I've spent many vacations there but don't know what it would be like to live there full-time.


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## Hound Dog

[_QUOTE=vantexan;1202707]Sorry about bringing up an old post, but we've decided to move to Oaxaca by October. Anyone familiar with current living costs there? Thanks to everyone for their recommendations on places to live, but Oaxaca meets most of what I want, and my fiancée wants a mild climate with reasonably quick access to good beaches.[/QUOTE]_

We have spent a great deal of time both in Oaxaca City, with friends in nearby Teotitlan del Valle and along the Oaxaca Coast which is probably our favorite coastal zone in Mexico for a number of reasons. As an aside, when the new autopista, well under construction at present, is opened, the drive from the city to the Puerto Escondido/Puerto Angel area should be cut to a couple of hours.

I have already explained in a previous post why, after several visits to Oaxaca City looking seriously at housing there, we decided instead to buy that Southern Mexico home in San Cristóbal de Las Casas. One important criterion for us was that the southern colonial city we chose had to have affordable and available housing in the historic center within walking distance to all the urban attractions and markets there and we could not find that housing in Oaxaca but that may not be important to the reader. If one is willing to live outside of the historic center, and put up with the congested traffic and poor road design of the city, rentals and prices are reasonable elsewhere in parts of Oaxaca and nearby suburbs but prices vary greatly and, in Oaxaca, one needs to actually go there and walk the streets in areas one finds desirable in order to find housing on the market or for rent within one´s price range. I would, therefore, advise finding a short term rental while looking for pemanent housing. That´s what we did in San Cristóbal and my wife walked the steets in the center many days before finding a house, basically a ruin but in a very nice historic area near the Santo Domingo ex-Convent , for sale she could then devote her time to renovating. The alternative of buying from a real estate agent in either Oaxaca or San Cristóbal will drive up the price - of that I can assure you. Not only that, one finds a home down there by looking for "For Sale" or "For Rent" signs not through a real estate agent so my advice is to avoid real estate agents altogether. It is typical down there for sellers to arrive at the price they want to achieve for a property and real estate agents then tack on their profit so one agent may quote a price well above another agent. Stay away from these guys if you can.

Oaxaca is fairly inexpensive as a place to live for both housing and food if one avoids tourist places. Everyone´s definition of "reasonable" varies so I won´t go into actual prices; go look for yourself and good luck.


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## Longford

Hound Dog said:


> I would, therefore, advise finding a short term rental while looking for pemanent housing. ... one finds a home down there by looking for "For Sale" or "For Rent" signs not through a real estate agent so my advice is to avoid real estate agents altogether. ... Oaxaca is fairly inexpensive as a place to live for both housing and food if one avoids tourist places. Everyone´s definition of "reasonable" varies so I won´t go into actual prices; go look for yourself and good luck.


Good advice, Hound Dog. :clap2:


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## Coachese

Longford said:


> You're moving to a city you've never seen or experienced life in before? Odd. Best of luck.


Sometimes a leap of faith can be the most rewarding of all.


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## CAtoOaxaca

vantexan said:


> Sorry about bringing up an old post, but we've decided to move to Oaxaca by October. Anyone familiar with current living costs there? Thanks to everyone for their recommendations on places to live, but Oaxaca meets most of what I want, and my fiancée wants a mild climate with reasonably quick access to good beaches.


My wife and I moved to Oaxaca last fall. We've lived in two apartments in the centro. In the first one, close to the zocalo, we paid 6,000 pesos for a small two-bedroom apartment with a tiny kitchen and internet. We're now living in a much, much bigger three-bedroom place just below the Auditorio Guelaguetza and paying 7,000 pesos. You can find much cheaper places in the centro, but quality runs the gamut. We looked at some really dingy places for 3,000 pesos, for example. 

We have two cats and a dog with us, which is why we wanted the extra space, but I don't think most people need to pay more than 5,000 or 6,000 for a nice apartment here. Good luck!


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## Hound Dog

[_QUOTE=CAtoOaxaca;1205348]My wife and I moved to Oaxaca last fall. We've lived in two apartments in the centro. In the first one, close to the zocalo, we paid 6,000 pesos for a small two-bedroom apartment with a tiny kitchen and internet. We're now living in a much, much bigger three-bedroom place just below the Auditorio Guelaguetza and paying 7,000 pesos. You can find much cheaper places in the centro, but quality runs the gamut. We looked at some really dingy places for 3,000 pesos, for example. 

We have two cats and a dog with us, which is why we wanted the extra space, but I don't think most people need to pay more than 5,000 or 6,000 for a nice apartment here. Good luck![/QUOTE]_

CAtoOaxcaca:

Thanks for that input. Keep in mind that we were looking for a place to purchase wth parking for one car within the historic center and not a place to rent as we have five dogs and renting in the historic center is not and was not a practical alternative for us as far as we know with all those mutts. During our search around the historic center of Oaxaca, a search that lasted for a couple of weeks at minimum, we found not even one acceptable dwelling for sale at any price. Perhaps it was just poor timing but I doubt that. Families do not sell off their patrimony easily in the historic center of Oaxaca and most of the rest of the city is extraordinarily unattractive , noisy and polluted and cursed by anarchic traffic and recurring traffic jams.

A most unpleasant place I am sorry to say. 

Too bad. We went there with the intention of moving there but life is not all about rude and dangerous and discourteous drivers and bleating horns. Compared to that place, Chiapas is peace on earth.


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## 2oaxaca

vantexan said:


> Sorry about bringing up an old post, but we've decided to move to Oaxaca by October. Anyone familiar with current living costs there? Thanks to everyone for their recommendations on places to live, but Oaxaca meets most of what I want, and my fiancée wants a mild climate with reasonably quick access to good beaches.


I live here in Oaxaca City. there is no quick access to the beach unless you can afford to fly - $150USD each way and 45 minutes. The distance from the city to the beach is short but terrible road - 6-7 hours depending on the state of the road and where your final destination is. 
I'll quote prices in USD unless specified
rice,household cleaning supplies - prices are similar to the the US
Fruit, vegetables, beans much less than US
Rents are rising - 400 to 600 USD for two would be a nice place in the central area but perhaps not right in the central are. There is no heat or air conditioning - so electricity about $15 per month, bottled gas about $25. We pay about $75 per month for landline phone, cable and internet - with 100 minutes to the US. 
Gas is about the same as US - we don't have a car - buses 6 pesos - taxis are 40 pesos. movies 50 pesos, beer 20 pesos, lunch special in the zocolo 75 pesos, in the neighborhood 40 pesos, nice lunch or dinner 150 to 200 pesos. dr's apt 350 pesos, 
any medical tests are much cheaper - $80 for complete lab tests - many drugs are cheaper, some are more. I would think you would need $2000 for 2 people, we live on less but we have very cheap rent, seldom eat out and take a lot of buses. We are older and have some Rx and dental expenses.


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## vantexan

Thanks for the good info. Looks like we'll head to Guatemala for now.


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## citlali

There is no perfect place and that includes Guatemala and a lot of other places..There are just pluses and minuses everywhere.


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## vantexan

citlali said:


> There is no perfect place and that includes Guatemala and a lot of other places..There are just pluses and minuses everywhere.


True, but one of Xela, Guatemala's pluses is it's extremely affordable. We just need to get by until my pension starts and looks like it will be tough to do in Oaxaca. If we are ready for something different in a few years then Oaxaca will most likely be the place.


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## 2oaxaca

We have lived here for 8 years and really like it. I do find the people remarkably friendly - we have many friends both expats and locals. we live just outside the centro and like it very much -a bus to the centro takes about 15 minutes and cost 6 pesos. Or we can walk - about a mile. We came sight unseen - we had a car then and just figured we could pack it up again and go to another place. We live near the 5 senores corner that people have mentioned - one easily learns when not to travel if you can avoid it and alternate routes. But the traffic is often a challenge - we walk a lot and that is easy since everything is close.
You are right about different people enjoying different aspects. I find San Cris way to cold and the segregation of indigenous bothers me. We have some here in Oaxaca but not at the same level. 
I do like the number of expats - but no expat enclave - lets one have support but also allows a more integrated experience. Our neighborhood a totally Mexican lower middle classs neighborhood and we love it. We do almost all of our shopping in the neighborhood with a good market and weekly local tiangus. Here services are much cheaper than in the centro - I'm thinking of shoe repair, glass repair, tailors, laundry, internet, hair cuts, house cleaners. 
there is a fairly large expat community in the Etla area - very nice houses for rent and to buy and a great group of people. One would really need a car here but it is lovely. I would warn anyone against Huayapam - the municipality has confiscated land purchased by foreigners (anyone not from the community - even Mex citizens) The area around Tule is very nice as well as San Felipe de aqua - our most upscale area locally. Many of the villages out by Teotitlan have only communal land. I know some expats that have built there on local friend's land - their only choice will be to leave the land to their Teotitlan friend.


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## citlali

Teotitlan

Incorrect it is not all communal land, some is some is private but it is all Indian land and therefore foreigners cannot buy. Our best friends are from Teotitlan and we stay there a lot, they have just bought a couple of houses there on private land but again Indian land.

San Cristobal de las Casas

What segregation are you talking about?? I have many indigenous friends who come to my house and stay there. I live mext to a private clinic and most of the patients are indigenous, We bought our house from an indigenous teacher who was origianlly from Tenejapa. My other neighbor is a mestizo who has a ranch in Chenalho and speak Tzotzil and Tzeltal and so on...

There has not been any segregation for quite a while and if anyone is being pushed out in some areas it is the mestizo population , go and take a walk in the northern part of town and see who is moving in.


By the way it is correct that your froends built on communal land that was assigned to that family but it is not all communal , many of the land close to the center is private.


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## Tairiro

I will be visiting in August and want to evaluate if moving there is a good idea for me. Where do the ex-pats hang out? In SMA it is the library. Thanks.


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## Tairiro

Where is the best place to connect with ex-pats? I am visiting in August for the third time and would like to visit with people who live there. Any suggestions would be appreciated.


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## vantexan

Tairiro said:


> Where is the best place to connect with ex-pats? I am visiting in August for the third time and would like to visit with people who live there. Any suggestions would be appreciated.


There's an English library that's supposed to be a big part of the expat community. From what I've read they have good info about what's going on locally.


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